Landfall in Spanish Wells

We left Marsh Harbour early on a calm, sunny Sunday morning (25 January). We waved farewell to those revellers from the previous night's party who had ventured above decks. It was hard to leave such a peaceful and secure anchorage! Anyway, we were on our way for the first leg of a voyage which would take us over 50 miles of Atlantic waters to Eleuthera. Our jumping-off spot for this trip was an anchorage on the lee side of Lygard Cay. From here we would join the Atlantic waters through the 'Little Harbour Cut'. We left 'Hope Town' to port, and promised ourselves a long stay in this charming town on our way back. The winds built from the north-east during our run down the side of Great Abaco Island. That night the strong wind and crashing waves pounding against the nearby barrier islands, not to mention the thought of the impending ocean voyage, made for a less than peaceful night. At 6:45 a.m. we weighed anchor and 'Southern Vectis' and 'Sea Change' headed for the rolling waves curling through the 'cut'. By 7:30 a.m. we were through and set sail in a fresh 15 knot breeze and 3 - 5 foot rollers. We expected to average 6 knots and arrive at our anchorage at Royal Island in around eight hours - leaving plenty of daylight to get us safely through the channel between the Egg Islands. All went according to plan, except that the winds built to 23 knots, and the waves to 6 to 8 feet at times. We had to fight with the wheel to keep our course, but, on the other hand, we flew across the water at 8 knots at times, and reached our destination earlier than expected. It was not a sheltered anchorage, and we needed a good night's sleep to rest our aching arms...but we were not to get one. The winds continued to howl in this 'sheltered' anchorage, and we dragged anchor once again! Luckily we didn't notice until it was almost light! A joint decision to take a break from passage-making for a few days saw us motoring the few miles to the Yacht Haven Marina at Spanish Wells. We have been here ever since. The island is named for the fresh water found here by the Spanish. Many of today's inhabitants are descended from Loyalists who fled the American revolution, or the Eleuthera Adventurers, English Puritans who arrived in 1648. The majority of the inhabitants are white skinned and speak with an interesting patois. The island, the centre of the lobster fishing trade in the Bahamas, appears a very industrious island. The houses are brightly painted, but generally not in a 'tourish brochure' fashion. The gardens are neat and well kept. The population is less than 400. Yesterday we took the fast ferry to 'Harbour Island' - a well-known and beautiful barrier island to the east of Eleuthera. The half-hour ferry trip took us over the shallows and coral of an extremely dangerous route known as the 'Devil's Backbone'. Sailors who brave this passage and survive take one of the pilots on board - either 'Ole Pot', or 'A1'. Harbour Island has a beautiful pink sand beach, quaint houses, shady lanes and some lovely hotels and restaurants. Our favourite beachfront hotel was the 'Coral Sands', and our lovely lunch time restaurant was the Aqua Wine Bar overlooking the Harbour Island Marina. While we have been here we've sorted out a problem with our roller-furling mainsail (thanks, Bob), and developed a leak in our water tank.....still to be solved. It seems there is always something to sort out.....that's the boating life for you. There's a storm due tonight, but we hope to set off further south towards the Exumas tomorrow if things settle down.

Marsh Harbour

We left Green Turtle at grey dawn on Friday to 'shoot the Whale' - the narrow channel out into the Atlantic that deeper draft boats must take to avoid shoals. We knew we had probably chosen the right day when we looked ahead and behind us and saw a small flotilla of boats also heading in the same direction! Well, the Whale was a breeze. As we approached the channel we were met by rolling waves of only about three feet, even though, at each side of the channel, the spray from towering breakers crashing against the rocks was spectacular. Our route then took us back into the shelter of the sea of Abaco through Loggerhead Channel and past Baker's Bay on Great Guana Cay. This was once a stopping point for cruise ships, but was discontinued due to the unreliability of getting the cruise ships in there on schedule in the heavy seas. We waved goodbye to 'Somewhere in Time' as they made their way into Orchid Bay Marina on Great Guana. They will stay there for a few days and partake of the renowned Sunday 'Pig Roast' at 'Nippers Bar' on the hill overlooking the Atlantic. We sailed on into Marsh Harbour along with 'Sea Change' and dropped anchor by midday. Marsh Harbour is the main town of the Abacos Islands, with a small commercial port. It is also a good provisioning port for cruising boats. The town has nothing of the quaintness of New Plymouth on Green Turtle, or Hope Town just a few miles south. However, it does have a good grocery store and a few liquor stores. We stocked up on essentials like Coconut and Mango Rum - at $12.95 a litre how could we not! We also met Jane and Lawrence on 'Esprit', and were invited for drinks on their boat. As we approached 'Esprit' by dinghy we could see three or four other dinghies already tied to the stern. It turned out to be quite a party! After a glass or three provided by our generous host and hostess we all dinghied off to the 'Jib Room' at the Marsh Harbour Marina for dinner. It was a good evening! Now it's 7:30 a.m. and I am rushing to get this written before we set off for Little Harbour which will be our jumping off point for a 50 mile Atlantic trip across to the island of Eleuthera. We hope to do that tomorrow (Monday 26 Jan) if the weather is good.

Waiting for 'The Whale'.

We left Manjack Cay last Sunday (18th Jan) to travel the few miles to neighbouring Green Turtle Cay. The weather forecast was not good - two 'cold fronts' were heading our way with gale force south-westerly winds and we wanted for find a 'hurricane hole' before the gales found us. It turned out well. We entered the anchorage and marina area of White Sound at high tide to allow for the depth of the entrance channel, and tied up at the Bluff House Marina. There are two marinas, some mooring buoys and plenty of anchorage space here. We chose Bluff House over Green Turtle Marina because we had heard that they were offering a special deal - to 'eat your dockage fee' at the marina's bar and restaurant! Over the past four days we have certainly done so! Despite the mixed and very cool weather - daytime highs yesterday of only 62F - we have had a good time here. We caught the ferry into the charming little town of New Plymouth. Neville Chamberlain grew up there. He was British Prime Minister at the start of WW2, and has gone down in history for his misguided statement, "Peace in our time", after meeting with Hitler in 1938. We all wondered how on earth he had made it from these small beginnings to such lofty heights of fame...or infamy. On Tuesday 20 January we watched the inauguration of President Obama from the Jolly Roger bar. We had a drink or three to his health and success. Such a difficult job at a difficult time. Since then we have been for walks, and got together with Sea Change and Somewhere in Time's crews at the Green Turtle Club's bar. Tomorrow we hope to set off through 'the Whale' for a short trip out into the Atlantic and then back into the Sea of Abaco en route for Marsh Harbour. Fingers crossed we'll make it past the ragged rocks and through the raging surf!!!! More anon...we hope!

Beach scene in winter - Manjack Cay

The crew of 'Somewhere in Time' take time out on Manjack Cay's lovely Atlantic beach

Bahamas beachcombers - Eileen and John

Beachcombers at Manjack Cay....Carole & Bob

Is this an ad for Tilly Hats? Disembarking at Manjack Cay.

The sun sets on the champagne & caviar crowd

Bob & Carole served beachside champagne & caviar in true RCYC style

Moving on from West End

We spent four very restful days at the Old Bahama Bay Resort and Yacht Harbour. After our Gulf Stream crossing we thought we had deserved it! Memorable moments included Bob and Carole's champagne and caviar 'reception' on the beach, a bicycle ride to the settlement of West End, and a bus trip to Port Lucaya, the shopping area adjacent to Freeport, on the west coast of Grand Bahama Island. Looking to the right as we drove along the road into Freeport we were amazed to see huge cruise ships towering above the sparse trees and sandy scrub which bordered the road. Our bus driver, Carmen, explained that these ships were in dry docks in Freeport for repairs and updates. Freeport used to be a busy tourist centre, with a bustling 'International Market Place' and a thriving casino and hotel complex. This changed with the last major hurricane, 'Wilma'. Damage from this vicious windstorm is still very evident. Now Port Lucaya has been developed into a shopping and restaurant area, and a marina. Judging from the bus loads of visitors pouring into the area, it is a focus for cruise ship passengers. We bought some trinkets, and had a delicious shrimp lunch. On the way back, Carmen took us to a large and well-stocked grocery store. It was interesting to compare some of the prices. A large block of cheddar cheese, for example was very much cheaper than in Canada.
Maybe it was a result of martinis served at Southern Vectis' martini party on Wednesday afternoon, but later that night, rather on the spur of the moment, but also keeping in mind the deteriorating weather forecasts of cold fronts and fiercesome winds to come, we decided it was now or never to start heading south towards the warmer and calmer climes of the Exuma Islands. So, having scrambled to put in our navigational waypoints early the next day, 'Sea Change', 'Somewhere in Time' and 'Southern Vectis' set out. The first leg of our trip was travelled very tentativly through the narrow and shallow 'Indian Rock Channel', just off West End. After safely passing this initial test we headed north-east for about 45 nautical miles to our overnight anchorage at Great Sale Cay. We set off at around 8:30 a.m. and arrived around 5 p.m. The days are short at the moment - the sun rises at about 7:05 a.m. and sets around 5:45 p.m. All boaters try to be at their overnight anchorages before dark as the Bahama Islands rarely offer the luxury of a buoyed channel. The wind had increased during the day and those with sails managed some good sailing. The anchorage was a crescent of water surrounded by the 'arms' of an uninhabited low-lying cay (pronounced 'key'). Two other boats shared this very welcome shelter with us, and each had some useful advice to tell us over our VHF radios. The next morning we set off at 8 a.m. determined to make it as far east along the Little Bahama Bank as possible. The winds during the day reached 25 knots from the north east, and the seas were a little lumpy at times, but luckily we were sheltered from the full force of the Atlantic by the barrier islands. As evening drew closer we decided to call in to Manjack Cay, which had been recommended by one of our friendly neighbours last night. It was a long and tiring day, fighting the heavy winds to keep on course. Bill and I relaxed with a gin and tonic, and yesterdays' cooked pork tenderloin and salad. A good day, and it was good that it was now over and we had covered at least another 45 miles.....but our day wasn't over! At 9 p.m. our anchor alarm, which we had luckily remembered to set on the GPS, started buzzing urgently. We went on deck. It was very windy and we were swinging wildly......that must have been the problem....the wide arc of the swing. So we set the alarm for a wider angle and settled back with our books, feeling sleepy and relaxed. But our relaxation was short-lived. The anchor alarm just would NOT keep quiet. On deck once again, in the pitch black, we admitted to ourselves that we were dragging our anchor, particularly as we were now west, instead of east of 'Somewhere in Time', and moving closer to the side of the bay, which we could just make out as a darker mass. Well, to cut a long story short, Bill saved the day. Under his masterful guidance, we managed to pull up the anchor, move the boat, and put down not just one anchor this time, but two! My decision to stay on watch all night gave out at 10:30 p.m., but I woke early to hurry on the dawn. When the sky lightened over the east and I went on deck and saw we were still in the same place, I crept back to bed and slept until the smell of bacon and eggs sizzling in the pan brought me back to consciousness. Today we have a 'lay day'. We have all dinghied to the cay and walked along a trail to the beautiful sweeping Atlantic beach. This evening Eileen and John from 'Somewhere in Time' have invited us for a pot luck dinner on board. This all means that we will be anchored here for another night! Keep your fingers crossed that this one will be less eventful than the last.

Southern Vectis at Old Bahama Bay Marina

It's a tough job, but someone's got to do it!

Pool area

Bahamas beachcomber

Off to check in at immigration office - no dress code here!

Bill on watch as we cross the Gulf Stream

We've crossed over...greetings from Paradise!

It has taken us a day of hot sun, fine white sand beaches, and 'Bahama Mama' rum c0cktails to really relax enough to be able to tell the true tale of our crossing from Fort Lauderdale to the Old Bahama Bay Marina at the northern tip of Grand Bahama Island. The true tale........it was a piece of cake! Truly, the build up, and the midnight flit from U.S. waters.....which included some of us going aground briefly, but not permanently, while exiting our Lake Sylvia anchorage (not telling who!), and a bridgemaster who was asleep at his job of letting us out into Port Everglades Harbour....tested our mettle so much that nothing could phase us on the actual trip. And nothing did. We stuck together and in contact by VHF. John helped us avoid the cruise ships and tankers by using his latest navigational toy - an AIS (Automatic Identification System), which told him the name of the vessels and what speed they were making. It got a little cool, so we put on a sweater plus socks, then peeled them off when the sun rose. Some of us slept more than others (see attached photo), while the cruel seas of the Gulf Stream lapped gently against our hulls.
We spotted land about 8 miles out, and were tied up at our docks by about midday. John ('Somewhere in Time') had made the Marina bookings for us all, and was the first one to negotiate the almost invisible, rock strewn entrance to the harbour. We followed him like lambs once we saw that he had not come to grief! Thank you, John.
Last night we were asleep by 8 p.m., but woke up starving hungry and cooked bacon, eggs and....fried bread (again!) - a breakfast to fortify us for the tough day of swimming, reading and exploring ahead.
The Old Bahamas Bay Marina is a lovely resort. It has rented or owned condo cottages, and a lovely pool area, a beach, restaurants, and a marina. There is an immigration and customs office here, so when we arrived only one person was allowed to get off the boat (in theory) and trot round to fill out forms and pay the $300 fee. While we waited to see if we were allowed in (!), we flew a yellow 'quarantine' flag, which we exchanged for a Bahamas flag once formalities were completed.
The marina is quite empty, and there aren't many people around. We were all offered a special docking rate of $1 per foot per day if we stayed for four nights (otherwise $1.75 per foot per day.) This is an unheard of rate....so we will all stay for four nights, particularly as a strong winds are expected tomorrow with a 'cold' front for the next few days.
Must finish now as Carol and Bob are hosting a champagne and caviar party, and I have to get into my cocktail shorts and T-shirt. Talk soon. Bye.

Southern Vectis strains at its leash..raring to go!

The 'Bahamas Bound ' crew

Bahamas here we come!

Tonight we sat on 'Southern Vectis' and watched a flaming orange sky fade to deep blue, and listened to the strains of a bagpipe float across the water. It was magical -particularly after cocktails on 'Somewhere in Time' - Eileen and John's luxurious 'Nordic Tug 42'. It was a fitting ending to the many happy days 'Southern Vectis' has spent here, at Las Olas Marina, since our first visit in mid-November.
Tomorrow is IT! The day we've been planning towards for literally years! We cross to the Bahamas! It's all planned...from a perfect (we hope) weather forecast, to a full moon, to non-existent waves in the Gulf Stream for our crossing. We're geared up and raring to go.....and more than a bit nervous, though we don't admit it! Our berths are booked at the 'Bahama Bay Marina', in West End, on the island of Grand Bahama, approximately 68 nautical miles north east of Fort Lauderdale.
Tomorrow (Saturday 10 January, 2009) 'Southern Vectis', 'Sea Change' and 'Somewhere in Time' will slip their moorings at 'Las Olas' and slip gently down the ICW to a temporary anchorage at 'Lake Sylvia'. We will all dinghy to do any last minute shopping, and probably gather at the 'Southport Raw Bar' for oysters and wine some time in the late afternoon. Then back to the boats and a short snooze before we pull anchor around 11:30 p.m. to catch the midnght opening of the 17th Street Bridge. Then our voyage will begin! All being well, and averaging a speed of about 6knots, we should make it to West End in 12 hours, taking into account the 3 + knot current in the Gulf Stream.
I must say that the build up to this crossing is quite something! We feel that we'll be somehow passing over to another existence.......maybe it'll be heaven, or maybe opposite! But tomorrow we'll be be 'crossing over'.....wish us luck!
Next time ......from the Bahamas.

Christmas party at Fraser and Edi's.

Lily wears her sunglasses at night and for breakfast

Water sports- VIctoria style

Lily & Isabelle

Beach walk -Victoria, B.C.

Holiday adventures

Christmas day on Vancouver Island

Happy New Year to all our 'blogsters'. We hope you had a good one, and that 2009 will be good to you all.
It seems ages since I last wrote, so if my prose seems a bit rusty, please put it down to too much food, wine and good company over the holidays.
Our holidays started with a get-together and delicious dinner at Fraser and Edi's house in Lighthouse Point. Suni, their lovely daughter, and Heather and Cory, Edi's twin sister and nephew, were also there. It was great to reminisce with them all, and catch up on their news.
Next we flew across the country to Victoria- taking the long way round via Montreal and Vancouver, but luckily missing all the storms. We spent ten days with Charlotte, Pierre, Lily (22 months) and Isabelle (5 months) in the woods of Metchosin, just outside Victoria. As you all probably koow, Vancouver Island is where a lot of Canadian 'snowbirds' go to avoid the snow and bitter temperatures 'out east'. Well, it didn't work this year! We arrived to thick snow and, in some cases, impassable roads and driveways. Charlotte and Pierre live at the top of a narrow lane and had to rent an enormous seven-seater four wheel drive SUV to get to their house! Thank you both for your forethought!
We had lots of fun with our little granddaughters - including 'the early morning shift', exercising with Lily on the trampoline, hot tubbing in the snow, and almost sliding down the hillside in the SUV! We also had a super day out at Weir Beach in the brilliant sunshine, and, of course lots of hugs and kisses from everyone. We were sad when we had to fly off on our 'red-eye' flight via Seattle and Atlanta back to Fort Lauderdale.
Now, since we've been back, we've provisioned the boat for the crossing to the Bahamas (we cornered the market in tins of chili, spaghetti sauce and stews!) We'll be going from Fort Lauderdale to 'West End', on Grand Bahama. Bob and Carol, on'Sea Change' arrived on 5th January, and John and Eileen on 'Somewhere in Time', will arrive sometime today. Both boats have been travelling all the way from Ontario since the beginning of September. Then we all wait for the famous 'weather window' - no 'north' in the wind and preferably soft southerly breezes. Just a passing thought...every boat crew we've chatted to so far has been making for the Bahamas...will there be room for us?! On the other hand - it sounds like 'party time' once we get there! More anon.