Thursday, February 20, 2014

We do a 'Sailfy' across the Gulf Stream

     February 20, 2014

     The day finally arrived.  Tension built.  Laundry and last shopping was all done.  Weather guru Chris Parker was off the air for a couple of days, but the wind and waves on 'Passage Weather' looked fine. We hadn't managed to find a 'buddy boat' to accompany us on the crossing, so decided to do a 'sailfy'! We left our float plan with our daughter, Charlotte, in Victoria, with instructions to call the coastguard if they received a 'Help' message sent from our 'Spot' satellite positioning system. I think they checked their smart phone every hour!  Thanks guys!

     Even though we got up at 4 a.m. there was a small moment of panic when we almost missed the 5 a.m. 17th Street bridge opening.  Then the moment of panic returned once we were through the bridge when, what we had thought was a well lit highrise building, seemed to be moving our way.  As we moved out into the entrance channel we realized that it was a cruise ship coming home to roost!
We scuttled over to the south side of the channel and watched with awe as this vast liner slid by only about 50 metres to our port side without leaving any wake.  This was only the first in a line of six huge ships coming in close on each others' tail to disgorge their thousands of sleeping (at the moment) passengers. No one seemed to be on the decks or watching from their balconies to wave to us! We picked the beautiful "Allure of the Seas" for our next cruise!

     Our crossing to the Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End, Grand Bahama Island, took 10 1/2 hours. It was cold to start with and we were well wrapped up. For the first half of the trip we motor-sailed in 3 - 5 foot waves with 16 knot winds.  Once we caught the Gulf Stream current we were doing 8 1/2 knots - really fast for us.  Then, in mid-passage, the wind turned on the nose and waves went down to almost nothing.  We made landfall at 3:45 p.m.

     The weather forecast was set fair for days ahead so we set off the next morning to head for the anchorage at Great Sale Cay - the halfway point to Green Turtle Cay.  The tide was right for us to take the Indian Cay Passage instead of going around Memory Rock. Indian Cay is a rock strewn, shallow passage just to the west of West End. It is a good short cut for those with strong nerves!

      The wind, what there was of it, was on the nose, so we motored across the Little Bahama Banks for 8 hours and arrived at the anchorage just before sunset.  The water on the Banks was crystal clear and bright turquoise and the sky a clear and shimmering blue.  We were the only boat to be seen, though we met up with three other boats at Great Sale.  We celebrated our half-way point with a delicious BBQ of lamb chops.  The next day we meandered more slowly, and, as the weather was so perfect, explored another anchorage area at Crab Cay, beside Angelfish Cay.  It was shallow and very quiet.  The moon was full and we played music to keep ourselves company - 'Moonlight Sonata' floated out across the deserted water and neighboring islets, followed by the 'Warsaw Concerto' - the wonderful theme from the old movie "Dangerous Moonlight".

It took us three hours to get to Green Turtle Cay the next day.  The weather is still beautiful, and we will spend a few days here 'eating our dock' - offsetting our restaurant bill against our dock fee.

Saturday, February 15, 2014

Playing tourist for a day on the Lauderdale water taxi.


Enjoying Ft. Lauderdale's golden sands and sparkling waters.


The 'monster' on the bridge. 24 hour bridge repairs take the sleep out of sleepy for hardy sailors at Las Olas. 'Alize' has a bird's eye view of the construction site!


'Southern Vectis' at her mooring beside Las Olas bridge


The S.E. 17th Street Causeway bridge opens for boat traffic at the entrance to Port Everglades Harbour, Ft. Lauderdale


Sunshine, beaches and 'Happy Hours' in Ft. Lauderdale

     February 15, 2014
     A week ago today we chose the 'outside' route from Lake Worth to Ft. Lauderdale. The wind was on the nose, as usual, so we motored through fairly heavy seas.  We were happy to avoid the eighteen bridges and mad weekend boat traffic on the ICW.  When we crossed under the S.E. 17th Street Causeway bridge at the entrance to Port Everglades harbour, pursued by everything from jet-skis to 80 foot motor cruisers, we were sure we'd be anchoring for the night in Lake Sylvia, an almost land-locked 'pond' of water surrounded by spectacular houses, and not a bad place to be at all.  However, our first choice would have been to find an empty mooring ball at Las Olas Marina. We felt we stood no chance.  But, just in case, we headed up towards Las Olas bridge and, to our surprise and delight, found that only two balls of the ten were occupied.  We grabbed one and breathed a sigh of relief.  That evening we knew why there were so many empty moorings: extensive work was being done on the bridge and this work carried on throughout the night!  Rumblings and roarings of machines, and annoying beeping from trucks backing up to disgorge their loads have become commonplace to all us moored boats. All ten moorings are full now and life goes on regardless.  Earplugs, bought at the local CVS Drug Store, are flying off the shelves.  One night welders working on the side of the bridge lit up the night with crackling and flying sparks, and seemed totally unaware of the large catamaran moored almost directly beneath them.

     Despite all of the above, how could we fail to enjoy the many delights and sunny days of Ft. Lauderdale? We discovered that our 'buddy boat' from Ft. Pierce, 'Alize', with Dick & Margaret aboard, was docked at the marina, so we introduced them to some of our favourite haunts, such as 'Casablanca Bar' and the nearby 'Quarter Deck'.  We've strolled the beach, had coffee at 'H2O', drinks at 'Bahia Cabana' and juicy oysters at the 'Southport Raw Bar'. We became tourists for a day, took the water-taxi into downtown, and ate lunch at 'Indigo' outside the Riverview Hotel.  Unfortunately Margaret had to fly back to Cleveland for a few days to see her sick mother, so we've been keeping Dick company until she comes back to the boat next week. 

     All this time, of course, we have been waiting for a 'weather window' to get us over to the Bahamas. We check all our weather forecasts daily and sometimes seem to see an opportunity, only to see it fall through with a surprise 'ridge' or 'cold front' which does not behave as expected.  We remain confident that one day soon we shall have to leave this lovely place and set out across those wild Atlantic rollers. We keep our fingers crossed that they won't be too wild!

         

Friday, February 7, 2014

Cocktail hour with Dick and Margaret on Alize.


Shopping trip at Lake Worth.


Bill relaxes at the Rum Bar, Lake Worth.


Al & Maggie pay us a visit.


DECISIONS AND DELAYS

February 7, 2014
     We are now at anchor in Lake Worth, Palm Beach. Last Monday we set off from Ft. Pierce in the company of Dick and Margaret on Alize, their beautiful 42 foot Beneteau.  As usual, we had enjoyed our time at Harbortown Marina and met up with old friends, Al and Maggie, Sigita and Martin and Fred and Debbie, from our previous sailing adventures.

     We had decided to sail to Lake Worth down 'the outside', but changed our mind the day before our departure because of our Sunday afternoon drive to the mouth of the Ft. Pierce inlet!  It was a beautiful and seemingly calm day. The sea wall was busy with people and sea birds of all sorts, but what caught our eye immediately was the large sailboat struggling against waves and rolling in the huge current at the mouth of the inlet. At one point it looked as though it would be dragged onto the rocks.  Luckily it just made it through. There aren't too many 'good' inlets for sailboats along the east coast, but Ft. Pierce is one of them!  However, timing is crucial. The devil's brew of wind against tide can be fatal.  It was a sobering experience!

     Our trip to Lake Worth down the Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) took us about 8 hours. It went fairly smoothly except for a heavy downpour and being at the mercy of the sometimes cranky bridge-captains of the seven opening road-bridges en route.  We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached our peaceful anchorage in the north end of Lake Worth.  Next day we relaxed, took the dinghy and had lunch at the 'Rum Bar', beside one of those pesky ICW bridges.

     We had signed on to get Chris Parker's e-mail weather forecasts and knew that there were 'weather windows' for a Gulf Stream crossing coming up in the next two days. We had already changed our plan and decided not to go on to Miami, so decided we would make the crossing along with other boats who had been waiting for the window.  It was not to be. We discovered that our batteries were not holding an electrical charge, and we needed to buy new ones.  We made arrangements to go into New Port Cove Marina and have them installed.  So, two days later, the batteries were installed, our faulty alternator was fixed and the 'weather window' had closed!  We did think of making a 'dash' across the Gulf Stream tonight, but were saved from our foolishness by the arrival of un-forecast 18 knot winds!  But we are happy with our decision, because now it means we can go to Ft. Lauderdale tomorrow and wait for the next weather window there.  But will we take the 'outside' route or struggle through the eighteen bridges on the ICW?  Watch this space.