Capt'n Jack Sparrow was on the lookout for new crew members!
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Key West - the party goes on..and on...and on.!
Sunday 26 February, 2012
We are docked at Key West Bight Marina, right in the centre of the town's Historic Seaport. It's a perfect location if you don't mind a bit of noise! The restaurants and bars are full and fun - we just missed 'Happy Hour' in the Schooner Bar when we arrived for lunch a couple of minutes after 12 p.m. yesterday. 'Happy Hour' there runs from 7 a.m. until noon! We'll know for next time.
We sailed down to Key West last Thursday - a clear blue day with a nice 15 knot breeze. We managed to sail most of the way, just turning on the motor to get us into the Marina before it closed for business at 5 p.m. We will be here for a week, and have been re-visiting our favourite haunts from last year's visit. We have rented bikes, as we left our bargain buys back in Marathon for our return.(Bill eventually bought one off the 'cruisers' net' too!)
We've already crossed off some of our favourite activities on our 'to do' list: watching the sunset at Mallory Square while being entertained by an assortment of jugglers, fire eaters, and, this year, performing cats; strolling on Duval Street to see the sights more than the shops (though the shops aren't bad!); visiting Fort Zachary State Park beach; exploring the Truman Annex area and the 'southern White House'. There's still more to do and enjoy though.
Key West has such a colourful history and it's still evident today,in the faces and characters of some of the locals, particularly in the dock areas. These crusty individuals could have been walking around a century or more ago, when the town and its' inhabitants lived off their wits and the spoils from wrecked ships. Pirates in books and movies have been polished up and sanitized into romantic and dashing heroic figures, but down here in the docks they look and act as they probably did before Johnny Depp came on the scene. With their beards and sunburned bare chests, their rugged and smoke-thickened voices, these fearsome characters get around on ancient, barely sea-worthy, skiffs filled with sacks of this, and that, and the other......but nearly always a dog. We watch from our pristine plastic boat as they come and go to their floating and vulnerable homes anchored some way out of the sheltered harbour.
We'll start to head back towards Marathon at the end of the week, and we'll probably have a couple of nights on the way at a peaceful anchorage in Newfound Harbour, near Big Pine Key - the perfect antidote to a week in Key West!
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Splendour in the Keys
Marathon - February 19, 2012 - our granddaughter, Lily's, 5th birthday.
The sea today was almost too blue, the sun almost too hot as we walked out over the remains of the old Seven Mile railway bridge built by Henry Flagler in the early years of the 20th century and destroyed in a hurricane in the 1930s. We were taking part in a fund-raiser to save 'Old Seven', as it's fondly known. We couldn't have picked a better day to appreciate the spectacular beauty of the Keys, a 160 mile chain of more than 1700 islands stretching from Key Largo to the Dry Tortugas. (The word 'key' come from the Spanish word 'cayo', meaning 'little island'.)
We arrived in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, on Thursday, 16th February, and were lucky to be given a mooring immediately. At this time of the year there can be a long waiting list for one of the 250 moorings coveted by so many cruisers intent on sitting out the 'winter' far from their northern home ports. There is a boat from Alaska to one side of us, one from London, Ontario on the other and one from Montreal just ahead of us!
We took two days to sail down 'the outside' - known as the 'Hawk Channel'- from Miami.
We motor-sailed the first day and spent a peaceful night anchored behind Rodriguez Key. The wind got up for our second leg, and we had our best sail so far with speeds of 7.5 knots - almost a record for us!
After two weeks in Miami moored at the Coconut Grove Sailing Club it was good to get on the water again, but mostly it was good to feel the sun again.....and to stay dry! There is only one word to describe the weather during our last ten days in Miami, and it is unprintable! Torrential rain storms and 28 knot winds, night-time temperatures dropping to 5C and day-time windchills, plus the possibility of a rare (for the time of year) tropical cyclone (hurricane!) had even the weather forecasters confused. But we survived it all....and so, for three days, did our stalwart on-board guests, Bob & Carole. Despite everything the weather could throw at us, we had a good time and even managed a sail one windy, gray day! The CGSC was hosting two regattas that weekend - both dinghy classes: Melges and 29ers. We sailed out into the bay to watch some of the racing and capsizing, and, once back snugly on our mooring, continued to watch with fascination as these mostly young sailors sailed nonchalantly back through the tightly knit maze of moored boats to the dock. Southern Vectis' crew had needed nerves of steel, followed by a strong drink, to re-locate and tie up to their mooring ball in that hull-to-hull sea of boats!
While in Coconut Grove we had also spent an evening with Martin & Sigita, and their crew, Paul, on their Hunter 410, 'Jumasi'. We had met them last year on our travels around the Keys. This year they were determined to sail to Cuba - a trip that American sailors are not permitted to take. When we arrived in Marathon they were already here and preparing for their 110 mile trip to Veradero. The next day they set off on what would probably be a 20 hour overnight trip. We are looking forward to hearing of their adventures!
We've also caught up with Mike, our other Hunter 380-owning friend who we first met in the Bahamas three years ago. He is on his way back from Key West and has called in here to have his engine checked. It's always good to see him and hear of his exploits. He'll be doing some musical 'gigs' around Florida later this spring.
Here in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, the centre for all the seafaring souls bobbing around as far as the eye can see is 'City Marina'. The whole operation is run very pleasantly and efficiently - from the dinghy docks to the laundry and showers, to the obligatory weekly visit of the 'pump-out' boat, plus the many activities. Last night we sat on the dock under a starry sky and were entertained by some wonderful musicians who came from boats in the harbour. Just a few minutes ago, as the sun set in crimson splendour, the eerie sound of conch horns blown to mark the passing of the day was followed by a lone horn playing 'taps' - a nostalgic reminder of my days as a girl guide - and then the strains of 'Amazing Grace' on the bagpipes floating out from further up the harbour.
It's important to be mobile here as the grocery stores and the waterfront tiki bars are spread around the harbour area. So today I bought a 'boat bike' from a fellow cruiser. Bill is still in the market for his bike, and we are hoping one will come up on the 'Cruisers Net' (a broadcast which takes place each morning on channel 68 on the VHF ship-to-shore radios advertising events and items for sale) In the meantime we are content to just be here! We're not sure how long we'll stay because we really want to spend some time in Key West, but.....on the other hand....it's pretty near perfect here! We'll put off making that decision to another day.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Fort Lauderdale fun - Miami monsoons
Fort Lauderdale is one of our favourite ports of call on the way south. This year we were lucky to find a mooring ball at Las Olas. We used it for a couple of days before moving in to a dock. Our batteries were going flat due to a malfunctioning (non-functioning!) newly-installed alternator,so we needed to be plugged in.
Things to do in Fort Lauderdale: Enjoy a dozen plump and juicy oysters at the Southport Raw Bar; walk the endless icing-sugar beaches before the crowds arrive, and definitely not on a weekend; take a water taxi ride to view the 'For Sale' signs on the beautiful palaces of the once rich, but probably now infamous; join the 'Happy Hour' regulars for a martini or three at 'Casablanca'; watch the world go by from a tall stool on the sidewalk of 'H20'.
We were also on the look-out for a 'weather window' to allow us to sail down on the outside route to Miami. It's only about 30 miles, but with winds each day in the 20 plus knot range, the Atlantic seas were rather angry-looking! The weather, since our idyllic two weeks in Fort Pierce, was, though still very warm, becoming more and more unsettled. There didn't seem to be much to choose from, so we picked the best option of a bad bunch and set off to catch the 8 a.m. bridge opening out into the wild Atlantic on Thursday, 2nd February. We were lucky. The six foot waves had subsided to less that half their size, the wind blew a pleasant 15 knots and we had a very pleasant and fast sail down the coast, reaching Miami in four hours.
We were happy we made the trip that day because the weather deteriorated after that. We spent two days at Dinner Key Marina and, during that time, following the advice of other sailors, became members of the Coconut Grove Sailing Club (CGSC), situated right next to the marina. Now we could take a mooring in the sheltered bay, so different from the exposed Dinner Key moorings. Now we could also use the facilities of this low-key, purely-sailing club, and now we could dance on the veranda to the Friday night band! That Friday the 'Solar Dogs', a folk/blue-grass group, were playing. We had seen them at an open-air concert in the lovely 'Barnacle Park' last year, and we were not disappointed.
The moorings here are VERY close together, and the boats dance around and beside each other in a frenzy when the monsoon rainstorms and accompanying winds we've been experiencing, set in. Miraculously each boat pulls up just short of its' neighbour. So far, anyway.
Mary's schoolfriend, Sue invited us out to a lovely dinner at her house on Saturday. Since then, we have been enjoying the delights of Coconut Grove while dodging the incessant (and highly unusual for this time of year, according to locals) tropical rains!
We are looking forward to a visit from our RCYC friends, Carole and Bob, this weekend, and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather improves so that we can do some sailing in lovely Biscayne Bay.
Things to do in Fort Lauderdale: Enjoy a dozen plump and juicy oysters at the Southport Raw Bar; walk the endless icing-sugar beaches before the crowds arrive, and definitely not on a weekend; take a water taxi ride to view the 'For Sale' signs on the beautiful palaces of the once rich, but probably now infamous; join the 'Happy Hour' regulars for a martini or three at 'Casablanca'; watch the world go by from a tall stool on the sidewalk of 'H20'.
We were also on the look-out for a 'weather window' to allow us to sail down on the outside route to Miami. It's only about 30 miles, but with winds each day in the 20 plus knot range, the Atlantic seas were rather angry-looking! The weather, since our idyllic two weeks in Fort Pierce, was, though still very warm, becoming more and more unsettled. There didn't seem to be much to choose from, so we picked the best option of a bad bunch and set off to catch the 8 a.m. bridge opening out into the wild Atlantic on Thursday, 2nd February. We were lucky. The six foot waves had subsided to less that half their size, the wind blew a pleasant 15 knots and we had a very pleasant and fast sail down the coast, reaching Miami in four hours.
We were happy we made the trip that day because the weather deteriorated after that. We spent two days at Dinner Key Marina and, during that time, following the advice of other sailors, became members of the Coconut Grove Sailing Club (CGSC), situated right next to the marina. Now we could take a mooring in the sheltered bay, so different from the exposed Dinner Key moorings. Now we could also use the facilities of this low-key, purely-sailing club, and now we could dance on the veranda to the Friday night band! That Friday the 'Solar Dogs', a folk/blue-grass group, were playing. We had seen them at an open-air concert in the lovely 'Barnacle Park' last year, and we were not disappointed.
The moorings here are VERY close together, and the boats dance around and beside each other in a frenzy when the monsoon rainstorms and accompanying winds we've been experiencing, set in. Miraculously each boat pulls up just short of its' neighbour. So far, anyway.
Mary's schoolfriend, Sue invited us out to a lovely dinner at her house on Saturday. Since then, we have been enjoying the delights of Coconut Grove while dodging the incessant (and highly unusual for this time of year, according to locals) tropical rains!
We are looking forward to a visit from our RCYC friends, Carole and Bob, this weekend, and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather improves so that we can do some sailing in lovely Biscayne Bay.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Lake Worth and net worth - lots of it!
We decided to change our routine once we reached Lake Worth and to tie up at the brand new Palm Harbour Marina instead of anchoring at the north end of the lake. The shops of Palm Beach, and particularly Worth Avenue, had always been of some interest to one of us, so we needed to be in walking distance to see for ourselves if the streets really were paved with gold!
They probably were.....but it was well hidden inside the vaults of the stately trust companies and brash 'Wealth Management' facades which line both sides of 'Royal Palm Way' - the front door of this wealthy enclave.
Our walk that day took us along West Palm Beach's recently remodelled lake side trail between Flagler Memorial Bridge and Royal Park Bridge. The previous night we had discovered the lively restaurant and bar area on 'Clematis Street'. Our meal on the sidewalk of a Mexican Restaurant was tasty, though our table seemed to become the focus of groups of small dogs whose owners prided themselves in their ability to extend their pooches' leashes to the full to test the athletic abilities of the passing crowd!
We walked across the island of Palm Beach visiting the lovely sculpture garden of the Museum of the 'Society of the Four Arts'. And so to Worth Avenue. The big designer names are all present and correct, from 'Dior' to 'Gucci' to lots we should probable have heard of but had somehow missed. It was fun to watch the rich at play - though as it was only noon there weren't too many around. The rich are different from you and me........apart from the obvious, they are extremely thin! We discovered this while browsing some of the ladies' designer boutiques - there was very little to be had over a size 8. We felt almost elephantine and we could see the eyes of the store assistants glaze over on our approach. Admittedly we were wearing our cut off shorts and sailing shoes...!
We had a delicious lunch in a small cafe in one of the many little alleys leading off the avenue, and wandered back admiring the lovely houses in the residential area. As our feet were dragging, we left a visit to the famous 'Breakers Hotel' until next time.
The next morning we left the marina just before dawn to avoid the strong currents which can catch unwary boaters around this part of the lake, and headed south on the ICW to Fort Lauderdale. We had 18 bridges to get through - each on request to the sometimes grumpy Bridge Captains! This year the winner of the Grumps award was the guardian of the 'George Bush' bridge - very appropriate we thought!
They probably were.....but it was well hidden inside the vaults of the stately trust companies and brash 'Wealth Management' facades which line both sides of 'Royal Palm Way' - the front door of this wealthy enclave.
Our walk that day took us along West Palm Beach's recently remodelled lake side trail between Flagler Memorial Bridge and Royal Park Bridge. The previous night we had discovered the lively restaurant and bar area on 'Clematis Street'. Our meal on the sidewalk of a Mexican Restaurant was tasty, though our table seemed to become the focus of groups of small dogs whose owners prided themselves in their ability to extend their pooches' leashes to the full to test the athletic abilities of the passing crowd!
We walked across the island of Palm Beach visiting the lovely sculpture garden of the Museum of the 'Society of the Four Arts'. And so to Worth Avenue. The big designer names are all present and correct, from 'Dior' to 'Gucci' to lots we should probable have heard of but had somehow missed. It was fun to watch the rich at play - though as it was only noon there weren't too many around. The rich are different from you and me........apart from the obvious, they are extremely thin! We discovered this while browsing some of the ladies' designer boutiques - there was very little to be had over a size 8. We felt almost elephantine and we could see the eyes of the store assistants glaze over on our approach. Admittedly we were wearing our cut off shorts and sailing shoes...!
We had a delicious lunch in a small cafe in one of the many little alleys leading off the avenue, and wandered back admiring the lovely houses in the residential area. As our feet were dragging, we left a visit to the famous 'Breakers Hotel' until next time.
The next morning we left the marina just before dawn to avoid the strong currents which can catch unwary boaters around this part of the lake, and headed south on the ICW to Fort Lauderdale. We had 18 bridges to get through - each on request to the sometimes grumpy Bridge Captains! This year the winner of the Grumps award was the guardian of the 'George Bush' bridge - very appropriate we thought!
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