Landfall in Spanish Wells

We left Marsh Harbour early on a calm, sunny Sunday morning (25 January). We waved farewell to those revellers from the previous night's party who had ventured above decks. It was hard to leave such a peaceful and secure anchorage! Anyway, we were on our way for the first leg of a voyage which would take us over 50 miles of Atlantic waters to Eleuthera. Our jumping-off spot for this trip was an anchorage on the lee side of Lygard Cay. From here we would join the Atlantic waters through the 'Little Harbour Cut'. We left 'Hope Town' to port, and promised ourselves a long stay in this charming town on our way back. The winds built from the north-east during our run down the side of Great Abaco Island. That night the strong wind and crashing waves pounding against the nearby barrier islands, not to mention the thought of the impending ocean voyage, made for a less than peaceful night. At 6:45 a.m. we weighed anchor and 'Southern Vectis' and 'Sea Change' headed for the rolling waves curling through the 'cut'. By 7:30 a.m. we were through and set sail in a fresh 15 knot breeze and 3 - 5 foot rollers. We expected to average 6 knots and arrive at our anchorage at Royal Island in around eight hours - leaving plenty of daylight to get us safely through the channel between the Egg Islands. All went according to plan, except that the winds built to 23 knots, and the waves to 6 to 8 feet at times. We had to fight with the wheel to keep our course, but, on the other hand, we flew across the water at 8 knots at times, and reached our destination earlier than expected. It was not a sheltered anchorage, and we needed a good night's sleep to rest our aching arms...but we were not to get one. The winds continued to howl in this 'sheltered' anchorage, and we dragged anchor once again! Luckily we didn't notice until it was almost light! A joint decision to take a break from passage-making for a few days saw us motoring the few miles to the Yacht Haven Marina at Spanish Wells. We have been here ever since. The island is named for the fresh water found here by the Spanish. Many of today's inhabitants are descended from Loyalists who fled the American revolution, or the Eleuthera Adventurers, English Puritans who arrived in 1648. The majority of the inhabitants are white skinned and speak with an interesting patois. The island, the centre of the lobster fishing trade in the Bahamas, appears a very industrious island. The houses are brightly painted, but generally not in a 'tourish brochure' fashion. The gardens are neat and well kept. The population is less than 400. Yesterday we took the fast ferry to 'Harbour Island' - a well-known and beautiful barrier island to the east of Eleuthera. The half-hour ferry trip took us over the shallows and coral of an extremely dangerous route known as the 'Devil's Backbone'. Sailors who brave this passage and survive take one of the pilots on board - either 'Ole Pot', or 'A1'. Harbour Island has a beautiful pink sand beach, quaint houses, shady lanes and some lovely hotels and restaurants. Our favourite beachfront hotel was the 'Coral Sands', and our lovely lunch time restaurant was the Aqua Wine Bar overlooking the Harbour Island Marina. While we have been here we've sorted out a problem with our roller-furling mainsail (thanks, Bob), and developed a leak in our water tank.....still to be solved. It seems there is always something to sort out.....that's the boating life for you. There's a storm due tonight, but we hope to set off further south towards the Exumas tomorrow if things settle down.

Marsh Harbour

We left Green Turtle at grey dawn on Friday to 'shoot the Whale' - the narrow channel out into the Atlantic that deeper draft boats must take to avoid shoals. We knew we had probably chosen the right day when we looked ahead and behind us and saw a small flotilla of boats also heading in the same direction! Well, the Whale was a breeze. As we approached the channel we were met by rolling waves of only about three feet, even though, at each side of the channel, the spray from towering breakers crashing against the rocks was spectacular. Our route then took us back into the shelter of the sea of Abaco through Loggerhead Channel and past Baker's Bay on Great Guana Cay. This was once a stopping point for cruise ships, but was discontinued due to the unreliability of getting the cruise ships in there on schedule in the heavy seas. We waved goodbye to 'Somewhere in Time' as they made their way into Orchid Bay Marina on Great Guana. They will stay there for a few days and partake of the renowned Sunday 'Pig Roast' at 'Nippers Bar' on the hill overlooking the Atlantic. We sailed on into Marsh Harbour along with 'Sea Change' and dropped anchor by midday. Marsh Harbour is the main town of the Abacos Islands, with a small commercial port. It is also a good provisioning port for cruising boats. The town has nothing of the quaintness of New Plymouth on Green Turtle, or Hope Town just a few miles south. However, it does have a good grocery store and a few liquor stores. We stocked up on essentials like Coconut and Mango Rum - at $12.95 a litre how could we not! We also met Jane and Lawrence on 'Esprit', and were invited for drinks on their boat. As we approached 'Esprit' by dinghy we could see three or four other dinghies already tied to the stern. It turned out to be quite a party! After a glass or three provided by our generous host and hostess we all dinghied off to the 'Jib Room' at the Marsh Harbour Marina for dinner. It was a good evening! Now it's 7:30 a.m. and I am rushing to get this written before we set off for Little Harbour which will be our jumping off point for a 50 mile Atlantic trip across to the island of Eleuthera. We hope to do that tomorrow (Monday 26 Jan) if the weather is good.

Waiting for 'The Whale'.

We left Manjack Cay last Sunday (18th Jan) to travel the few miles to neighbouring Green Turtle Cay. The weather forecast was not good - two 'cold fronts' were heading our way with gale force south-westerly winds and we wanted for find a 'hurricane hole' before the gales found us. It turned out well. We entered the anchorage and marina area of White Sound at high tide to allow for the depth of the entrance channel, and tied up at the Bluff House Marina. There are two marinas, some mooring buoys and plenty of anchorage space here. We chose Bluff House over Green Turtle Marina because we had heard that they were offering a special deal - to 'eat your dockage fee' at the marina's bar and restaurant! Over the past four days we have certainly done so! Despite the mixed and very cool weather - daytime highs yesterday of only 62F - we have had a good time here. We caught the ferry into the charming little town of New Plymouth. Neville Chamberlain grew up there. He was British Prime Minister at the start of WW2, and has gone down in history for his misguided statement, "Peace in our time", after meeting with Hitler in 1938. We all wondered how on earth he had made it from these small beginnings to such lofty heights of fame...or infamy. On Tuesday 20 January we watched the inauguration of President Obama from the Jolly Roger bar. We had a drink or three to his health and success. Such a difficult job at a difficult time. Since then we have been for walks, and got together with Sea Change and Somewhere in Time's crews at the Green Turtle Club's bar. Tomorrow we hope to set off through 'the Whale' for a short trip out into the Atlantic and then back into the Sea of Abaco en route for Marsh Harbour. Fingers crossed we'll make it past the ragged rocks and through the raging surf!!!! More anon...we hope!

Beach scene in winter - Manjack Cay

The crew of 'Somewhere in Time' take time out on Manjack Cay's lovely Atlantic beach

Bahamas beachcombers - Eileen and John

Beachcombers at Manjack Cay....Carole & Bob