Key West is definitely the end of the rainbow. Even the Atlantic changes colour from a deep and serious blue, to a bright and playful turquoise, as you near the island. Here you can stand at the southernmost point of the continental United States and gaze out across 90 miles of ocean in the direction of Cuba. Key West, often referred to as the 'Conch Republic' by the locals because of its' declaration of independence from the United States in 1982, is filled with history, charm ....and people! The latter mainly because we happened to pick March Break Week for our visit!
We took two days to travel the 50 miles here from Boot Key, Marathon. We anchored overnight in Newfound Harbour, a large and sheltered inlet about 20 miles west along the island chain from Marathon. To get into the anchorage we passed the luxurious Palm Island Resort, gazed at the pristine private beach, and noted the bikini clad figures draped languidly over the occasional beach lounger and 80 foot luxury motor yacht. We had to be very careful with the depth in the harbour. It varied from 22 feet to 3 1/2 feet - or so our depth sounder told us! (We draw 5 feet.) We still haven't had to resort to the services of 'Tow Boat U.S.', but it is comforting to know that they are out there! By the time the evening came more boats had came in to join us.
The next morning we left early and hoped we could have a good sail. Unfortunately a combination of 18 knot easterlies on our stern, and rolling 4 foot swells, made it more of a motoring day! We had booked a slip at Conch Harbour Marina, in Key West Bight. There is a large anchorage off the Bight, but we had heard so many horror stories about boats dragging anchor in this very exposed area, that we decided to splurge on a spot at a dock. As it happened it was the wrong dock, and after two nights of loud music from the monolithic motor yachts that surrounded and dwarfed us, we moved just a couple of piers along to the Key West Bight Marina. It's a city owned marina and is much more sailboat friendly! It is also in the 'Historic Seaport', an area with a boardwalk, and every kind of restaurant and bar you could wish for.
So here we are and loving every minute of it. Our perfectly blue day begins with a stirring rendition of the 'Star Spangled Banner' from the nearby Coast Guard Station, and continues with boat and people watching, strolling the shady streets, and even doing some more cycling. Then it's time to decide where we are going to watch the sunset - a big ceremony around here.
We rented bikes to take part in yet another house and garden tour - such a good way to get to know the town, see some lovely houses, and meet some locals at the same time. We were invited to a private view at a local gallery last night - art and music play an important part in the life of Key West.
During our cycling tour we visited Key West Yacht Club, chatted with some members, and had a delicious lunch. The club is tucked away in a corner of Garrison Bight, and is not a practical docking option for us due to its' 55 foot overhead wires at the entrance to the channel. (Our mast is 60 foot tall)
We have also met up with an old friend - Mike Miller. He is now living on his Hunter 380, 'Norma Fay' at a nearby marina, and kindly gave us a copy of his latest CD, 'My Life Ain't For Beginners'. Mike entertained a group of sailors taking refuge in Orchid Bay Marina, in the Abacos, with his great music a couple of years' ago. He is a single-handed sailor most of the time, and leads a very adventurous life. (Makes our adventures sound tame!)
One of the wharfs here is named Schooner Wharf and is home to a fleet of beautifully restored old schooners - the largest and most majestic of which is the 130 foot 'Western Union'. These lovely boats take would-be sailors on sunset or moonlight cruises (the full moon seems to be a permanent fixture in the clear night sky around here!) We love to watch the returning mast lights floating serenely towards the harbour as the pink sky changes to indigo and the stars and moon come out.
We have decided that this will be our furthest port of call on this trip, and that we'll start retracing our steps...slowly....once we leave here. Each stop along the way has been good, and we'll probably add some new ones on the way back up to Fort Pierce.
Just as an aside....we listen each day to BBC World News on our satellite radio and feel that we, and all our fellow boaters floating around in paradise, are so lucky.
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