Wednesday, April 25, 2012
All good things must come to an end.
The sky is a brilliant blue, the sea is sparkling turquoise and the temperature is hovering around a comfortable 26C - but we are packing up 'Southern Vectis' ready for haul-out tomorrow (26 April), and our trip back to .......snow, gray skies, rain.......Ontario!
We've had a wonderful and very warm winter in Florida this year, and are looking forward to next year's adventures - probably in the Bahamas.
Our run up to Miami from Marathon went well - we sailed all the way and spent two nights anchored at Rodriguez Key en route. We dinghied in to a local waterfront restaurant, the Mandalay, for lunch,and swam and enjoyed the peace of this beautiful spot.
In Miami we took a mooring at 'our club' - the Coconut Grove Sailing Club - and sat out some windy and wet days there - just as we had in February. Not sure what it is about Miami this year! But we did have some very good times: we had dinner at the Peacock Garden with Sue, and we had a surprise two-night visit from Marianne & Paul from Nova Scotia. We travelled with them in the Exumas two years ago, and have kept in touch. The weather had improved by then and we had a wonderful day sailing in Biscayne Bay, anchoring and swimming.
The weather was becoming unsettled again and we needed a good day to sail up the 'outside' to Fort Lauderdale. We realized that we only had a four day 'weather window' if we wanted to get back to our home port of Fort Pierce before the dire warnings of a huge cold front with accompanying thunder, lightning, gale force winds and tornadoes, headed our way. So we stayed only one night on a mooring at Las Olas in Fort Lauderdale, but managed a happy hour at 'Casablanca'. From there we headed up the Intra-coastal waterway through the 18 bridges to Lake Worth. Because of storm warnings, we tied up at a marina that was recommended by our friend, Mike - 'North Palm Beach Marina'. It was a good night to be there as a storm hit just after dark. Next morning we caught the 7:15 a.m. Parker Bridge opening and made it to Fort Pierce a couple of hours before the next storm! Phew!
We've had a very enjoyable time at our dock here at Harbortown Marina - but the time has been too short. The first few days were stormy with 60 knot gusts and heavy rain once again. Many boats came in from nearby anchorages to sit out the storms in safety. But now all is calm and perfect. We had a very enjoyable dinner at 'Capone's Hideaway' with Fruji and John last night and hope to get all our packing jobs done today in time for a last swim.
Tomorrow we'll spend the night in St. Augustine at the quaint B & B we stayed at last year, the 'Casa de Solana'. Then we'll drive back the way we came down - on the I 75 to Niagara-on-the-Lake.
We'll be back on 'Southern Vectis' in January 2013. That's the plan!
We've had a wonderful and very warm winter in Florida this year, and are looking forward to next year's adventures - probably in the Bahamas.
Our run up to Miami from Marathon went well - we sailed all the way and spent two nights anchored at Rodriguez Key en route. We dinghied in to a local waterfront restaurant, the Mandalay, for lunch,and swam and enjoyed the peace of this beautiful spot.
In Miami we took a mooring at 'our club' - the Coconut Grove Sailing Club - and sat out some windy and wet days there - just as we had in February. Not sure what it is about Miami this year! But we did have some very good times: we had dinner at the Peacock Garden with Sue, and we had a surprise two-night visit from Marianne & Paul from Nova Scotia. We travelled with them in the Exumas two years ago, and have kept in touch. The weather had improved by then and we had a wonderful day sailing in Biscayne Bay, anchoring and swimming.
The weather was becoming unsettled again and we needed a good day to sail up the 'outside' to Fort Lauderdale. We realized that we only had a four day 'weather window' if we wanted to get back to our home port of Fort Pierce before the dire warnings of a huge cold front with accompanying thunder, lightning, gale force winds and tornadoes, headed our way. So we stayed only one night on a mooring at Las Olas in Fort Lauderdale, but managed a happy hour at 'Casablanca'. From there we headed up the Intra-coastal waterway through the 18 bridges to Lake Worth. Because of storm warnings, we tied up at a marina that was recommended by our friend, Mike - 'North Palm Beach Marina'. It was a good night to be there as a storm hit just after dark. Next morning we caught the 7:15 a.m. Parker Bridge opening and made it to Fort Pierce a couple of hours before the next storm! Phew!
We've had a very enjoyable time at our dock here at Harbortown Marina - but the time has been too short. The first few days were stormy with 60 knot gusts and heavy rain once again. Many boats came in from nearby anchorages to sit out the storms in safety. But now all is calm and perfect. We had a very enjoyable dinner at 'Capone's Hideaway' with Fruji and John last night and hope to get all our packing jobs done today in time for a last swim.
Tomorrow we'll spend the night in St. Augustine at the quaint B & B we stayed at last year, the 'Casa de Solana'. Then we'll drive back the way we came down - on the I 75 to Niagara-on-the-Lake.
We'll be back on 'Southern Vectis' in January 2013. That's the plan!
Monday, April 16, 2012
Family visit
Everything was in place. The scrubbed decks of 'Southern Vectis' sparkled in the sunshine at her dock at the 'Sombrero Boatman Resort' at the head of Boot Key Harbour, Marathon. We'd provisioned suite 406 at the resort with all the basics, and then some. Patti, our neighbour, had kindly lent us her car as our bikes would have groaned with the load. We were ready. Louisa, Steve and our grandsons, Leo, Orson and Simon, had spent a day in Orlando visiting 'Harry Potter World', and were now making the long, six hour drive down through Florida and the Keys, to visit 'Granny & Grandad World'!!
During the past month of our stay in Marathon we had been researching 'things to do', and had come up with a longish list of possibles. We were realistic enough to realize that we'd probably only do half of them, if that.......but we were wrong! At the end of the visit the only thing left undone was a kayak trip amongst the mangroves - maybe not that exciting for three energetic boys who were happy spending as much time as possible in and under the water of the pool or the ocean.
The resort was perfect for our 'group' - a very relaxed atmosphere, and also not too busy. Louisa & Steve had rented a mini-van so we could all travel together on our excursions. But instead of ticking off one of our 'things to do' each day, we found ourselves able to cover at least two, and sometimes even three. Our 'group' was a tour guide's dream.......no complaints and tons of enthusiasm!
We spent some memorable times at Sombrero Beach, just down the road from the resort. We could get there by dinghy through 'Sister Creek'. Grandad & Simon did some fishing en route, but found that they needed more practice! We also had a wonderful afternoon at Bahia Honda State Park beach, snorkeling in the warm, turquoise sea, and building sand castles with the icing sugar sand.
Key West was only an hour's drive away, and, as we had spent some time there with the boat, we could act as tour guides. We visited the Old Historic Seaport and showed everyone where 'Southern Vectis' had been docked. We walked to the centre of activities for the old town - Duval Street - and wandered along the packed sidewalks, window-shopping. A favourite activity was the visit to the 'Toy Factory' where we met Jamie, a magician Bill & I had met on our last visit. The boys were entranced by his card tricks and bought some tricks to practice at home. We found a nice Irish pub for supper, and then joined the crowds at Mallory Square for the 'Sunset Ceremony'. The boys found watching stilt-walking, fire throwing jugglers, and the many other assorted 'acts', far more fascinating than watching a fiery red ball of gas sink into the sea!
And so our days passed all too quickly. Louisa and Steve went out to Sombrero Reef on a scuba trip, we visited the Dolphin Research Centre and the Turtle Hospital. We also visited some of our favourite 'Tiki Bars' - Salty's, and the Keys' Fisheries - and had a memorable last night's dinner at the 'Sunset Grill', where the boys swam as the sun set on our perfect time together.
On Easter Sunday, before they set off on their drive north to Stuart to spend some time with Fruji and John, their other granny & grandad, there was an Easter Egg hunt on 'Southern Vectis'. Luckily the Easter Bunny had sensibly left the chocolates in the air-conditioned cabin!
They are all back in Toronto now, and we are back in Miami. We miss them, but look forward to seeing them all again soon on our return to Toronto.
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
We meet 'Island Boy'
While we've been in the Keys we have met so many people from so many parts of the world. However we found two of the most interesting people living right here in Marathon.
Bo & Brende have lived in the Keys for most of their lives. We met them by chance at the Marina, struck up a conversation, and discovered that Bo was the author of two books about life in the Keys, based on his life and love of these islands. The books are aimed at the young teenage age group. We decided to buy copies of 'Welcome Home Island Boy' and 'Rescue in the Gulf Stream' as gifts for our grandsons. Of course, with the author living so close by, it was obvious that we needed to get the books signed by their author. So one afternoon we were invited over to Bo & Brende's house, had the books signed, and were given a fascinating tour of Brende's garden, which was filled with plants and trees native to the area, and often used as remedies or simply as herbs in cooking.
We were shown the huge staghorn fern which was planted by Bo's father in 1938, and delicately beautiful orchids growing on the trees. Then, of course, we could not resist reading the books before we gave them to our grandsons! Apart from being exciting adventure stories, the books told the story of lives spent in an enviably beautiful, but not always safe (as in hurricanes) part of the planet.
Bo & Brende have lived in the Keys for most of their lives. We met them by chance at the Marina, struck up a conversation, and discovered that Bo was the author of two books about life in the Keys, based on his life and love of these islands. The books are aimed at the young teenage age group. We decided to buy copies of 'Welcome Home Island Boy' and 'Rescue in the Gulf Stream' as gifts for our grandsons. Of course, with the author living so close by, it was obvious that we needed to get the books signed by their author. So one afternoon we were invited over to Bo & Brende's house, had the books signed, and were given a fascinating tour of Brende's garden, which was filled with plants and trees native to the area, and often used as remedies or simply as herbs in cooking.
We were shown the huge staghorn fern which was planted by Bo's father in 1938, and delicately beautiful orchids growing on the trees. Then, of course, we could not resist reading the books before we gave them to our grandsons! Apart from being exciting adventure stories, the books told the story of lives spent in an enviably beautiful, but not always safe (as in hurricanes) part of the planet.
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
We abandon ship.......for a vacation from our vacation!
alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5724985533080662242" />The wind had been blowing a steady 20 - 25 knots from the north-east forever, or so it seemed to us. The seas surrounding the Keys were a white-capped five to eight feet. Not a boat had stirred from the harbour for days, and if any boats had arrived they were out of luck, as not one of the 250 or so moorings in the harbour was free. But the sun usually kept on shining, and the temperatures topped out at around 28C each day. We were still in paradise.....if a bit worn around the edges. Then we had a bright idea- we would abandon ship and have a few days respite visiting some good friends who were wintering on the west coast of the sunshine state. No sooner said than done! Arrangements were made to visit Gloria and Frank in Siesta Key and Garth & Linda in Port Charlotte.
Our drive took us about six hours. As we crossed the state on 'Alligator Alley' we listened to an interesting broadcast about the Everglades - its' creatures, and the efforts being made to preserve this unique ecosystem.
Gloria & Frank's lovely condo was right on the beach in the quiet end of Siesta Key, just south of Sarasota. Siesta Key's beach has been voted #1 beach in America, so we were keen to try it out! We were not disappointed. We spent our days swimming, beach walking, exploring the sights of this lovely area, and enjoying every minute of the wonderful warm hospitality of good friends.
The second part of our 'escape' took us a short way south to 'Riverwood' in the Port Charlotte area, and Garth & Linda's winter home. 'Riverwood' is a large, gated community. Each home looks out on to a lake, river or golf course, and the homes are beautiful. A large portion of the residents are snowbirds from the northern states and Canada, and it is a very friendly place with lots going on. While we were there, Garth & Linda took us on a drive to the little village of Boca Grande on Gasparilla Island - a charming village with a beautiful and very accessible beach. We had a memorable lunch at the 'Pink Elephant' restaurant beside a creek - just one of many lovely eating establishments in this very special corner of Florida.
We enjoyed our five day break very much, and found it interesting to see the winter homes and observe the habitat of other snowbirds!
And so back to 'Southern Vectis'. We found her still afloat - some friendly neighbours had watched over her during our absence, so all was well. What was even better was that the wind had gone down and changed direction towards the south. This meant that, over the past few days there has been a huge exodus of boats, either to the north, or to the Bahamas. There are actually empty mooring balls around us now, though there was a small hiatus a few days ago when a tall mast knocked down a cable at the entrance to the harbour and we were all trapped on our sheltered pond for a few days. But that has been fixed now, and the 'boat drain' from the harbour continues as 'the season' winds down.
We have decided that our exercise regime each day will be cycling far and wide! We have to do this in the morning as it gets too hot later, but we usually aim for a tiki bar at some point during our trip! A couple of days ago we cycled out over the old railway bridge to Pigeon Key, which was the base for workers building Henry Flager's 'railroad to the sea' exactly 100 years ago. Flagler, with money from oil and saw mills, was responsible for turning this previously steamy, uninviting and mosquito-ridden state into the tourist mecca it is today. Once the 'Florida East Coast Railroad' was completed in 1912, it was possible to travel in comfort from New York to Key West, and from their to Havana, in 48 hours.
We will be moving 'Southern Vectis' off her mooring to a dock at the 'Sombrero Key Boatman Marina' on Sunday in preparation for Louisa, Steve and the boys' visit on Monday. We have made a long list of things to do and see for the five days they are here .....but maybe they will just want to sit on a beach and swim! We'll play it by ear, and enjoy our time in the sun with them all.
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Beware the winds of March
After the storm - Red sky at night promises a better day tomorrow.
The calm before the storm - Boot Key Harbour
On our return trip to Marathon we spent a night at anchor in Newfound Harbour, beside Big Pine Key. The harbour is very shallow, and it's best to enter on half-tide or higher. We had anchored here last year, but each year the sandbars shift and it's hard to decide which way to jump when the sand rises to meet your keel. On our way into the harbour we cast an envious glance at the luxurious resort of 'Little Palm Island', perched on the tip of Munson Island, and only accessible by launch or float plane. However, our destination for the evening was not to be a five-star restaurant, but a waterfront restaurant we had loved last year which goes by the wonderful name of 'Parrotdise', in honour of the musician who has done more than most to put the Keys on the tourist map - Jimmy Buffet. After ensuring the anchor was secure, and saying 'hello' to Frank on a neighbouring boat, we dinghied up under the Highway 1 road-bridge and joined in the Happy Hour festivities at our destination!
When we had anchored the previous evening we had been a long way from any other boat - in fact there were only about five in the whole of the huge harbour. The wind had got up during the night, but we didn't stir. However, when we awoke and looked out, we found that the large Nordhaven tug which had been anchored at least 300 metres from us was now about 2 metres from our stern. While Southern Vectis has had a few incidents of dragging anchor, we figured that, for once, we weren't at fault this time. As we watched, the tug continued it's slow and stately progress backwards. There was no sign of anyone on deck, and the boat wasn't in any danger, so we watched its' progess until the owner came on deck, gave us a wave, and calmly went below to cook breakfast! Maybe it was all part of the plan. It was certainly a good way to save on the fuel bill!
We decided to head off back to Marathon as the weather for the weekend was looking a little stormy and we wanted to be sure to get a mooring ball in Boot Key harbour. We waited until midday for the tide, and, after a very fast sail, made it into the harbour by 5 p.m. The rule for getting a mooring ball is that you cannot request one until you are entering through the gap in the old bridge. When we called Anne at the City Marina office on our VHF radio she was pleased to welcome us back, and we were relieved that she still had a mooring ball for us. It turned out to be one of the last ones available for a long time. Many boats have had to anchor either outside or inside the harbour during the stormy days and gale force winds that arrived in force on Sunday 4th March. Though our boat has rocked and rolled
during the past ten days of 20 - 35 knot winds, we have slept soundly knowing that we are tied securely to a large piece of concrete buried in the sea-bed!
Since we've been here we have become the proud owners of yet another bargain ($15) bike - so now we have three. The reason for this is that my little boat bike, though handy to pack up and store on the boat, has wheels smaller than our granddaughters' bikes. This has meant that I was just arriving at a destination when Bill was ready to turn around! Now we can see the sights together.
Last Saturday we cycled to view the homes on the Marathon Garden Club's 'House and Garden Tour'. We had done this last year and found it interesting to see some of the lovely homes in this area.
Boot Key Harbour is a very friendly place and we've met up with old friends and made new ones. There are at least five boats in the harbour from Toronto.
Last weekend Bill & I worked as volunteers at Marathon's annual 'Seafood Festival', put on by the 'Organized Fishermen of Marathon'. Apart from working a shift at the entrance gate, we ate lobster dinners, snacked on shrimps fresh from the Florida Straits, and oysters freshly plucked from the rocks! The band that played on Saturday evening, 'The Regs', put on a fantastic 'act' and had everyone dancing on the stage at the end of the show! A wonderful weekend.
And now for the weather! Well, it is very warm, but still very windy and blowing in the wrong direction for most sailors who would like to head back to Miami and ports north, or sail over to the Bahamas. Once the winds change direction and the seas die down a bit there will be a huge exodus. There's no real sign of this happening yet. We are happy to be here for the next few weeks, and looking forward to the arrival of Louisa, Steve, Leo, Orson and Simon at the beginning of April.
Farewell to Key West
We set sail from Key West for our trip back to Marathon on Thursday 1 March. Our celebratory farewell meal took place at the lovely 'Azur' restaurant on Grinell Street, just a short walk from the Old Seaport. It was the most delicious food we'd tasted since we'd been there...and we'd certainly tasted a lot, most of it deep fried! Just to be presented with a plate artistically filled with things green and/or fresh was a novel experience - and to be able to distinguish the mouth-watering taste of each delicious morsel was a rare treat!
The weather had been extremely hot during our visit, so much so that, for the very first time, we used our air-conditioning! It felt strange to resort to this on a sailboat open to the balmy breezes of the ocean, but for a few days the breezes seemed to blow from a hot oven rather than the ocean! So we closed up the hatches and breathed a sigh of relief and cool air.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Key West - the party goes on..and on...and on.!
Sunday 26 February, 2012
We are docked at Key West Bight Marina, right in the centre of the town's Historic Seaport. It's a perfect location if you don't mind a bit of noise! The restaurants and bars are full and fun - we just missed 'Happy Hour' in the Schooner Bar when we arrived for lunch a couple of minutes after 12 p.m. yesterday. 'Happy Hour' there runs from 7 a.m. until noon! We'll know for next time.
We sailed down to Key West last Thursday - a clear blue day with a nice 15 knot breeze. We managed to sail most of the way, just turning on the motor to get us into the Marina before it closed for business at 5 p.m. We will be here for a week, and have been re-visiting our favourite haunts from last year's visit. We have rented bikes, as we left our bargain buys back in Marathon for our return.(Bill eventually bought one off the 'cruisers' net' too!)
We've already crossed off some of our favourite activities on our 'to do' list: watching the sunset at Mallory Square while being entertained by an assortment of jugglers, fire eaters, and, this year, performing cats; strolling on Duval Street to see the sights more than the shops (though the shops aren't bad!); visiting Fort Zachary State Park beach; exploring the Truman Annex area and the 'southern White House'. There's still more to do and enjoy though.
Key West has such a colourful history and it's still evident today,in the faces and characters of some of the locals, particularly in the dock areas. These crusty individuals could have been walking around a century or more ago, when the town and its' inhabitants lived off their wits and the spoils from wrecked ships. Pirates in books and movies have been polished up and sanitized into romantic and dashing heroic figures, but down here in the docks they look and act as they probably did before Johnny Depp came on the scene. With their beards and sunburned bare chests, their rugged and smoke-thickened voices, these fearsome characters get around on ancient, barely sea-worthy, skiffs filled with sacks of this, and that, and the other......but nearly always a dog. We watch from our pristine plastic boat as they come and go to their floating and vulnerable homes anchored some way out of the sheltered harbour.
We'll start to head back towards Marathon at the end of the week, and we'll probably have a couple of nights on the way at a peaceful anchorage in Newfound Harbour, near Big Pine Key - the perfect antidote to a week in Key West!
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Splendour in the Keys
Marathon - February 19, 2012 - our granddaughter, Lily's, 5th birthday.
The sea today was almost too blue, the sun almost too hot as we walked out over the remains of the old Seven Mile railway bridge built by Henry Flagler in the early years of the 20th century and destroyed in a hurricane in the 1930s. We were taking part in a fund-raiser to save 'Old Seven', as it's fondly known. We couldn't have picked a better day to appreciate the spectacular beauty of the Keys, a 160 mile chain of more than 1700 islands stretching from Key Largo to the Dry Tortugas. (The word 'key' come from the Spanish word 'cayo', meaning 'little island'.)
We arrived in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, on Thursday, 16th February, and were lucky to be given a mooring immediately. At this time of the year there can be a long waiting list for one of the 250 moorings coveted by so many cruisers intent on sitting out the 'winter' far from their northern home ports. There is a boat from Alaska to one side of us, one from London, Ontario on the other and one from Montreal just ahead of us!
We took two days to sail down 'the outside' - known as the 'Hawk Channel'- from Miami.
We motor-sailed the first day and spent a peaceful night anchored behind Rodriguez Key. The wind got up for our second leg, and we had our best sail so far with speeds of 7.5 knots - almost a record for us!
After two weeks in Miami moored at the Coconut Grove Sailing Club it was good to get on the water again, but mostly it was good to feel the sun again.....and to stay dry! There is only one word to describe the weather during our last ten days in Miami, and it is unprintable! Torrential rain storms and 28 knot winds, night-time temperatures dropping to 5C and day-time windchills, plus the possibility of a rare (for the time of year) tropical cyclone (hurricane!) had even the weather forecasters confused. But we survived it all....and so, for three days, did our stalwart on-board guests, Bob & Carole. Despite everything the weather could throw at us, we had a good time and even managed a sail one windy, gray day! The CGSC was hosting two regattas that weekend - both dinghy classes: Melges and 29ers. We sailed out into the bay to watch some of the racing and capsizing, and, once back snugly on our mooring, continued to watch with fascination as these mostly young sailors sailed nonchalantly back through the tightly knit maze of moored boats to the dock. Southern Vectis' crew had needed nerves of steel, followed by a strong drink, to re-locate and tie up to their mooring ball in that hull-to-hull sea of boats!
While in Coconut Grove we had also spent an evening with Martin & Sigita, and their crew, Paul, on their Hunter 410, 'Jumasi'. We had met them last year on our travels around the Keys. This year they were determined to sail to Cuba - a trip that American sailors are not permitted to take. When we arrived in Marathon they were already here and preparing for their 110 mile trip to Veradero. The next day they set off on what would probably be a 20 hour overnight trip. We are looking forward to hearing of their adventures!
We've also caught up with Mike, our other Hunter 380-owning friend who we first met in the Bahamas three years ago. He is on his way back from Key West and has called in here to have his engine checked. It's always good to see him and hear of his exploits. He'll be doing some musical 'gigs' around Florida later this spring.
Here in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, the centre for all the seafaring souls bobbing around as far as the eye can see is 'City Marina'. The whole operation is run very pleasantly and efficiently - from the dinghy docks to the laundry and showers, to the obligatory weekly visit of the 'pump-out' boat, plus the many activities. Last night we sat on the dock under a starry sky and were entertained by some wonderful musicians who came from boats in the harbour. Just a few minutes ago, as the sun set in crimson splendour, the eerie sound of conch horns blown to mark the passing of the day was followed by a lone horn playing 'taps' - a nostalgic reminder of my days as a girl guide - and then the strains of 'Amazing Grace' on the bagpipes floating out from further up the harbour.
It's important to be mobile here as the grocery stores and the waterfront tiki bars are spread around the harbour area. So today I bought a 'boat bike' from a fellow cruiser. Bill is still in the market for his bike, and we are hoping one will come up on the 'Cruisers Net' (a broadcast which takes place each morning on channel 68 on the VHF ship-to-shore radios advertising events and items for sale) In the meantime we are content to just be here! We're not sure how long we'll stay because we really want to spend some time in Key West, but.....on the other hand....it's pretty near perfect here! We'll put off making that decision to another day.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Fort Lauderdale fun - Miami monsoons
Fort Lauderdale is one of our favourite ports of call on the way south. This year we were lucky to find a mooring ball at Las Olas. We used it for a couple of days before moving in to a dock. Our batteries were going flat due to a malfunctioning (non-functioning!) newly-installed alternator,so we needed to be plugged in.
Things to do in Fort Lauderdale: Enjoy a dozen plump and juicy oysters at the Southport Raw Bar; walk the endless icing-sugar beaches before the crowds arrive, and definitely not on a weekend; take a water taxi ride to view the 'For Sale' signs on the beautiful palaces of the once rich, but probably now infamous; join the 'Happy Hour' regulars for a martini or three at 'Casablanca'; watch the world go by from a tall stool on the sidewalk of 'H20'.
We were also on the look-out for a 'weather window' to allow us to sail down on the outside route to Miami. It's only about 30 miles, but with winds each day in the 20 plus knot range, the Atlantic seas were rather angry-looking! The weather, since our idyllic two weeks in Fort Pierce, was, though still very warm, becoming more and more unsettled. There didn't seem to be much to choose from, so we picked the best option of a bad bunch and set off to catch the 8 a.m. bridge opening out into the wild Atlantic on Thursday, 2nd February. We were lucky. The six foot waves had subsided to less that half their size, the wind blew a pleasant 15 knots and we had a very pleasant and fast sail down the coast, reaching Miami in four hours.
We were happy we made the trip that day because the weather deteriorated after that. We spent two days at Dinner Key Marina and, during that time, following the advice of other sailors, became members of the Coconut Grove Sailing Club (CGSC), situated right next to the marina. Now we could take a mooring in the sheltered bay, so different from the exposed Dinner Key moorings. Now we could also use the facilities of this low-key, purely-sailing club, and now we could dance on the veranda to the Friday night band! That Friday the 'Solar Dogs', a folk/blue-grass group, were playing. We had seen them at an open-air concert in the lovely 'Barnacle Park' last year, and we were not disappointed.
The moorings here are VERY close together, and the boats dance around and beside each other in a frenzy when the monsoon rainstorms and accompanying winds we've been experiencing, set in. Miraculously each boat pulls up just short of its' neighbour. So far, anyway.
Mary's schoolfriend, Sue invited us out to a lovely dinner at her house on Saturday. Since then, we have been enjoying the delights of Coconut Grove while dodging the incessant (and highly unusual for this time of year, according to locals) tropical rains!
We are looking forward to a visit from our RCYC friends, Carole and Bob, this weekend, and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather improves so that we can do some sailing in lovely Biscayne Bay.
Things to do in Fort Lauderdale: Enjoy a dozen plump and juicy oysters at the Southport Raw Bar; walk the endless icing-sugar beaches before the crowds arrive, and definitely not on a weekend; take a water taxi ride to view the 'For Sale' signs on the beautiful palaces of the once rich, but probably now infamous; join the 'Happy Hour' regulars for a martini or three at 'Casablanca'; watch the world go by from a tall stool on the sidewalk of 'H20'.
We were also on the look-out for a 'weather window' to allow us to sail down on the outside route to Miami. It's only about 30 miles, but with winds each day in the 20 plus knot range, the Atlantic seas were rather angry-looking! The weather, since our idyllic two weeks in Fort Pierce, was, though still very warm, becoming more and more unsettled. There didn't seem to be much to choose from, so we picked the best option of a bad bunch and set off to catch the 8 a.m. bridge opening out into the wild Atlantic on Thursday, 2nd February. We were lucky. The six foot waves had subsided to less that half their size, the wind blew a pleasant 15 knots and we had a very pleasant and fast sail down the coast, reaching Miami in four hours.
We were happy we made the trip that day because the weather deteriorated after that. We spent two days at Dinner Key Marina and, during that time, following the advice of other sailors, became members of the Coconut Grove Sailing Club (CGSC), situated right next to the marina. Now we could take a mooring in the sheltered bay, so different from the exposed Dinner Key moorings. Now we could also use the facilities of this low-key, purely-sailing club, and now we could dance on the veranda to the Friday night band! That Friday the 'Solar Dogs', a folk/blue-grass group, were playing. We had seen them at an open-air concert in the lovely 'Barnacle Park' last year, and we were not disappointed.
The moorings here are VERY close together, and the boats dance around and beside each other in a frenzy when the monsoon rainstorms and accompanying winds we've been experiencing, set in. Miraculously each boat pulls up just short of its' neighbour. So far, anyway.
Mary's schoolfriend, Sue invited us out to a lovely dinner at her house on Saturday. Since then, we have been enjoying the delights of Coconut Grove while dodging the incessant (and highly unusual for this time of year, according to locals) tropical rains!
We are looking forward to a visit from our RCYC friends, Carole and Bob, this weekend, and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather improves so that we can do some sailing in lovely Biscayne Bay.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Lake Worth and net worth - lots of it!
We decided to change our routine once we reached Lake Worth and to tie up at the brand new Palm Harbour Marina instead of anchoring at the north end of the lake. The shops of Palm Beach, and particularly Worth Avenue, had always been of some interest to one of us, so we needed to be in walking distance to see for ourselves if the streets really were paved with gold!
They probably were.....but it was well hidden inside the vaults of the stately trust companies and brash 'Wealth Management' facades which line both sides of 'Royal Palm Way' - the front door of this wealthy enclave.
Our walk that day took us along West Palm Beach's recently remodelled lake side trail between Flagler Memorial Bridge and Royal Park Bridge. The previous night we had discovered the lively restaurant and bar area on 'Clematis Street'. Our meal on the sidewalk of a Mexican Restaurant was tasty, though our table seemed to become the focus of groups of small dogs whose owners prided themselves in their ability to extend their pooches' leashes to the full to test the athletic abilities of the passing crowd!
We walked across the island of Palm Beach visiting the lovely sculpture garden of the Museum of the 'Society of the Four Arts'. And so to Worth Avenue. The big designer names are all present and correct, from 'Dior' to 'Gucci' to lots we should probable have heard of but had somehow missed. It was fun to watch the rich at play - though as it was only noon there weren't too many around. The rich are different from you and me........apart from the obvious, they are extremely thin! We discovered this while browsing some of the ladies' designer boutiques - there was very little to be had over a size 8. We felt almost elephantine and we could see the eyes of the store assistants glaze over on our approach. Admittedly we were wearing our cut off shorts and sailing shoes...!
We had a delicious lunch in a small cafe in one of the many little alleys leading off the avenue, and wandered back admiring the lovely houses in the residential area. As our feet were dragging, we left a visit to the famous 'Breakers Hotel' until next time.
The next morning we left the marina just before dawn to avoid the strong currents which can catch unwary boaters around this part of the lake, and headed south on the ICW to Fort Lauderdale. We had 18 bridges to get through - each on request to the sometimes grumpy Bridge Captains! This year the winner of the Grumps award was the guardian of the 'George Bush' bridge - very appropriate we thought!
They probably were.....but it was well hidden inside the vaults of the stately trust companies and brash 'Wealth Management' facades which line both sides of 'Royal Palm Way' - the front door of this wealthy enclave.
Our walk that day took us along West Palm Beach's recently remodelled lake side trail between Flagler Memorial Bridge and Royal Park Bridge. The previous night we had discovered the lively restaurant and bar area on 'Clematis Street'. Our meal on the sidewalk of a Mexican Restaurant was tasty, though our table seemed to become the focus of groups of small dogs whose owners prided themselves in their ability to extend their pooches' leashes to the full to test the athletic abilities of the passing crowd!
We walked across the island of Palm Beach visiting the lovely sculpture garden of the Museum of the 'Society of the Four Arts'. And so to Worth Avenue. The big designer names are all present and correct, from 'Dior' to 'Gucci' to lots we should probable have heard of but had somehow missed. It was fun to watch the rich at play - though as it was only noon there weren't too many around. The rich are different from you and me........apart from the obvious, they are extremely thin! We discovered this while browsing some of the ladies' designer boutiques - there was very little to be had over a size 8. We felt almost elephantine and we could see the eyes of the store assistants glaze over on our approach. Admittedly we were wearing our cut off shorts and sailing shoes...!
We had a delicious lunch in a small cafe in one of the many little alleys leading off the avenue, and wandered back admiring the lovely houses in the residential area. As our feet were dragging, we left a visit to the famous 'Breakers Hotel' until next time.
The next morning we left the marina just before dawn to avoid the strong currents which can catch unwary boaters around this part of the lake, and headed south on the ICW to Fort Lauderdale. We had 18 bridges to get through - each on request to the sometimes grumpy Bridge Captains! This year the winner of the Grumps award was the guardian of the 'George Bush' bridge - very appropriate we thought!
Thursday, January 26, 2012
We set off with fond memories of Ft. Pierce
It's always hard to push off from the dock. But it has to be done sometime. Yesterday (25 January) we said a fond farewell to the group of friendly boaters on 'F' dock, and set off. We had been waiting...and waiting for a package to arrive for quite a few days. But with no sign of it (or so we thought) we decided to get going at 1:45 p.m. - cutting it fine to get to our anchorage at Peck Lake, just south of Stuart, before dark. When, at 2:30 p.m., the marina called us to say that the courier had just arrived, there was a lot of hot air around 'Southern Vectis', but no turning back!
That was not to be the only frustration of the day. Our timing to Peck Lake was perfect. We eased carefully around green buoy number 19 as the sun set, and flocks of white ibises swooped low over the water en route to their night-time roosts. Unfortunately we took a little longer to settle in our roost as we ran aground! It's easy to do this in Peck Lake because the sand moves constantly and causes little underwater hills here and there. We managed to get stuck on a sandhill, surrounded by a lot of friendly and helpful boaters - mainly Canadian - who had managed to miss it! As much pushing and shoving by dinghies didn't work, we called 'Tow Boat U.S.' for the very first time in our boating career. Within half an hour a young man in a boat fitted with engines that would not look out of place at Cape Canaveral, roared up, lassooed the boat and dragged us off accompanied by much cheering. He deposited us in a 'sand valley', not hill this time. We anchored, and he jetted off. Wonderful service and worth every annual subscription we've paid over the years!
Now we are waiting for the tide to come in a little before we venture back out onto the ICW for our day's run to Lake Worth. The sun is shining, the sky is blue...but who knows what awaits us around the next bend in the river?
That was not to be the only frustration of the day. Our timing to Peck Lake was perfect. We eased carefully around green buoy number 19 as the sun set, and flocks of white ibises swooped low over the water en route to their night-time roosts. Unfortunately we took a little longer to settle in our roost as we ran aground! It's easy to do this in Peck Lake because the sand moves constantly and causes little underwater hills here and there. We managed to get stuck on a sandhill, surrounded by a lot of friendly and helpful boaters - mainly Canadian - who had managed to miss it! As much pushing and shoving by dinghies didn't work, we called 'Tow Boat U.S.' for the very first time in our boating career. Within half an hour a young man in a boat fitted with engines that would not look out of place at Cape Canaveral, roared up, lassooed the boat and dragged us off accompanied by much cheering. He deposited us in a 'sand valley', not hill this time. We anchored, and he jetted off. Wonderful service and worth every annual subscription we've paid over the years!
Now we are waiting for the tide to come in a little before we venture back out onto the ICW for our day's run to Lake Worth. The sun is shining, the sky is blue...but who knows what awaits us around the next bend in the river?
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