Splendour in the Keys

Marathon - February 19, 2012 - our granddaughter, Lily's, 5th birthday.

The sea today was almost too blue, the sun almost too hot as we walked out over the remains of the old Seven Mile railway bridge built by Henry Flagler in the early years of the 20th century and destroyed in a hurricane in the 1930s. We were taking part in a fund-raiser to save 'Old Seven', as it's fondly known. We couldn't have picked a better day to appreciate the spectacular beauty of the Keys, a 160 mile chain of more than 1700 islands stretching from Key Largo to the Dry Tortugas. (The word 'key' come from the Spanish word 'cayo', meaning 'little island'.)

We arrived in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, on Thursday, 16th February, and were lucky to be given a mooring immediately. At this time of the year there can be a long waiting list for one of the 250 moorings coveted by so many cruisers intent on sitting out the 'winter' far from their northern home ports. There is a boat from Alaska to one side of us, one from London, Ontario on the other and one from Montreal just ahead of us!

We took two days to sail down 'the outside' - known as the 'Hawk Channel'- from Miami.
We motor-sailed the first day and spent a peaceful night anchored behind Rodriguez Key. The wind got up for our second leg, and we had our best sail so far with speeds of 7.5 knots - almost a record for us!

After two weeks in Miami moored at the Coconut Grove Sailing Club it was good to get on the water again, but mostly it was good to feel the sun again.....and to stay dry! There is only one word to describe the weather during our last ten days in Miami, and it is unprintable! Torrential rain storms and 28 knot winds, night-time temperatures dropping to 5C and day-time windchills, plus the possibility of a rare (for the time of year) tropical cyclone (hurricane!) had even the weather forecasters confused. But we survived it all....and so, for three days, did our stalwart on-board guests, Bob & Carole. Despite everything the weather could throw at us, we had a good time and even managed a sail one windy, gray day! The CGSC was hosting two regattas that weekend - both dinghy classes: Melges and 29ers. We sailed out into the bay to watch some of the racing and capsizing, and, once back snugly on our mooring, continued to watch with fascination as these mostly young sailors sailed nonchalantly back through the tightly knit maze of moored boats to the dock. Southern Vectis' crew had needed nerves of steel, followed by a strong drink, to re-locate and tie up to their mooring ball in that hull-to-hull sea of boats!

While in Coconut Grove we had also spent an evening with Martin & Sigita, and their crew, Paul, on their Hunter 410, 'Jumasi'. We had met them last year on our travels around the Keys. This year they were determined to sail to Cuba - a trip that American sailors are not permitted to take. When we arrived in Marathon they were already here and preparing for their 110 mile trip to Veradero. The next day they set off on what would probably be a 20 hour overnight trip. We are looking forward to hearing of their adventures!

We've also caught up with Mike, our other Hunter 380-owning friend who we first met in the Bahamas three years ago. He is on his way back from Key West and has called in here to have his engine checked. It's always good to see him and hear of his exploits. He'll be doing some musical 'gigs' around Florida later this spring.

Here in Boot Key Harbour, Marathon, the centre for all the seafaring souls bobbing around as far as the eye can see is 'City Marina'. The whole operation is run very pleasantly and efficiently - from the dinghy docks to the laundry and showers, to the obligatory weekly visit of the 'pump-out' boat, plus the many activities. Last night we sat on the dock under a starry sky and were entertained by some wonderful musicians who came from boats in the harbour. Just a few minutes ago, as the sun set in crimson splendour, the eerie sound of conch horns blown to mark the passing of the day was followed by a lone horn playing 'taps' - a nostalgic reminder of my days as a girl guide - and then the strains of 'Amazing Grace' on the bagpipes floating out from further up the harbour.

It's important to be mobile here as the grocery stores and the waterfront tiki bars are spread around the harbour area. So today I bought a 'boat bike' from a fellow cruiser. Bill is still in the market for his bike, and we are hoping one will come up on the 'Cruisers Net' (a broadcast which takes place each morning on channel 68 on the VHF ship-to-shore radios advertising events and items for sale) In the meantime we are content to just be here! We're not sure how long we'll stay because we really want to spend some time in Key West, but.....on the other hand....it's pretty near perfect here! We'll put off making that decision to another day.