Since we crossed from Marsh Harbour to Hope Town a week ago two cold fronts have charged across the Abaco Islands bringing overcast skies, blustery squalls and cool temperatures. At nights some sailors have even resorted to wearing socks in bed! As I write, the second cold front is upon us, but 30 knot gusts don't seem so bad under today's clear blue skies.
Our trip over to Hope Town was short and sweet, until we discovered that all the mooring balls in the harbour were taken, and there was not even any room left in the newly renovated and very splendid Hope Town Marina. The only other option, apart from a retreat to Marsh Harbour, was to find a dock at tiny Lighthouse Marina. We were lucky, and managed to squeeze Southern Vectis into a spot beside the gas and ferry dock. Not the most peaceful dockage, but nevertheless a foot in the door. The marina is right under Hope Town's famous candy-striped lighthouse, built in 1863, and one of three hand-cranked, kerosene burning lighthouses in the world. It's worth a climb to the top for the spectacular view over Elbow Cay, the Sea of Abaco and the breakers of the Atlantic.
The next morning a few boats left their moorings and we slid into a good spot close to the town dock.
Since we've been here the harbour has become filled up once again with boats seeking shelter from the next weather front.
Hope Town is on Elbow Cay. Its' pastel coloured homes, narrow streets and friendly inhabitants, many of whom are second home owners from the U.S. and Canada, make it a favourite destination for cruising boaters. It's rare to have a night in around here, although the bad weather has sometimes put a damper on the festivities. There are some interesting eating spots at the harbour's edge - Capt'n Jack's is a favourite. Further south on the cay the Abaco Inn sits perched on a bluff overlooking both the Atlantic and the Sea of Abaco. We had a very good Sunday brunch there with Sigita and Martin, and had to walk the two miles back to atone for our eating habits! Yesterday we rented bikes and cycled to the south end of the cay, stopping at the new 'Firefly' resort for a delicious lunch overlooking the water.
We plan to stay on our mooring for at least another couple of weeks. Our weather guru, Chris Parker, has promised that the current cold front will be the last of the big winter blows. We'll see!
(A housekeeping note: Weekly rents for a Hope Town home start at $2,000 a week, moorings in the harbour start at $20 a night and move down the longer you stay!)
Thursday, March 7, 2013
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