Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Heading Back.
We had planned to stay in Hope Town for ten more days after John & Alex left, but a five day 'weather window' changed our minds. March had been a mixed month for weather, with a few cold fronts (from Canada we are always told!) paying the Bahamas weekly visits. When this happens all the harbours, docks and sheltered anchorages are filled with boats patiently waiting out the storms. Then, towards the end of March, boats start moving north, beginning their migration back up the east coast of the U.S. to their summer cruising grounds in Chesapeake Bay or further north. 'Weather windows' for crossing the Gulf Stream have been few and far between this spring, so if one comes along it's wise to take it. And we did.
We had a final game of Bingo at Capt'n Jack's with Ron & Jane, and Steve and Debby and left on a high note as Steve won one of the games. He shared his winnings in the form of wine! Then, on April Fool's Day we said a fond farewell to Hope Town, and sailed out with the tide. We weren't alone. At least twenty boats were sailing along with us, all heading to cross through 'The Whale' inlet on the first leg of their homeward journeys.
The weather held for the entire six days of our trip back to Fort Pierce. The Sea of Abaco sparkled, the waves lapped the hull, and there was even enough wind to sail. Our two anchorages - at beautiful Powell Cay and at Great Sale Cay - were peaceful. At Great Sale Cay we anchored on the west side of the cay with about ten boats, and met up with Pat and Pete on 'Dreamseeker' for a drink at sundown. They were planning to sleep for about 5 hours and then set off at midnight to cross straight over to Fort Pierce - a trip of about 20 hours. Many boats go this route, but not 'Southern Vectis'! Eight to ten hour days suit us better. Night sailing is not on our agenda!
From Great Sale Cay we made it through the shallow Indian Cay Channel into Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End. It was two and a half hours after high tide, but we managed to sneak through without running aground or hitting a rock! The marina was packed with boats waiting to cross to Lake Worth. We had never seen it so full, and felt lucky to get a dock. As usual before a 'crossing', people get together and compare weather forecasts and their own predictions. The general consensus this time was to wait an extra day and cross on Saturday. The waves and swell outside the marina had built to four to five feet and looked uncomfortably choppy, but it would all 'lay down' by Saturday morning. So we had a lovely day, sitting on the beach, swimming and snorkelling, and chatting with many of the boaters we knew from our trips around the Abacos. That evening we had a 'Last Party in Paradise', swapped stories, drank wine, and generally got up our courage for the next day's crossing. By 7:30 a.m. the next morning most of the docks were empty and the marina was left to slumber in the sunshine. The flotilla had set sail.
Our crossing was fine. It was 'lumpy' to start off, but soon the waves calmed down and the wind blew from the right direction. The flotilla chatted happily to each other on the VHF radios, and we made it to Lake Worth's peaceful northern anchorage in ten and a half hours. The next day we travelled up the Intra-Coastal Waterway to 'home base' - Harbortown Marina at Fort Pierce.
We've been here at our dock for just over a week. Many of the Bahamas boaters are docked here, or have called off here on their trips north. The Tiki Bar is buzzing with tales of the sea. Our friends, Gloria and Frank from Toronto, are staying nearby in Vero Beach, and we'll be seeing more of them during the rest of our stay. Otherwise we are trying to 'party down'! Even the marina held a barbecue party last Saturday.......and so the festivities continue and the sun shines......though not all the time. We've had a few gray days, and stormy winds, but no snow so far! We haven't set a date yet for the boat to be hauled out, but we will probably have it done by the end of next week - 26/27 April.
Another wonderful winter is comng to an end, but no one around here says "goodbye" at the end of the season, just "same time next year".
We had a final game of Bingo at Capt'n Jack's with Ron & Jane, and Steve and Debby and left on a high note as Steve won one of the games. He shared his winnings in the form of wine! Then, on April Fool's Day we said a fond farewell to Hope Town, and sailed out with the tide. We weren't alone. At least twenty boats were sailing along with us, all heading to cross through 'The Whale' inlet on the first leg of their homeward journeys.
The weather held for the entire six days of our trip back to Fort Pierce. The Sea of Abaco sparkled, the waves lapped the hull, and there was even enough wind to sail. Our two anchorages - at beautiful Powell Cay and at Great Sale Cay - were peaceful. At Great Sale Cay we anchored on the west side of the cay with about ten boats, and met up with Pat and Pete on 'Dreamseeker' for a drink at sundown. They were planning to sleep for about 5 hours and then set off at midnight to cross straight over to Fort Pierce - a trip of about 20 hours. Many boats go this route, but not 'Southern Vectis'! Eight to ten hour days suit us better. Night sailing is not on our agenda!
From Great Sale Cay we made it through the shallow Indian Cay Channel into Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End. It was two and a half hours after high tide, but we managed to sneak through without running aground or hitting a rock! The marina was packed with boats waiting to cross to Lake Worth. We had never seen it so full, and felt lucky to get a dock. As usual before a 'crossing', people get together and compare weather forecasts and their own predictions. The general consensus this time was to wait an extra day and cross on Saturday. The waves and swell outside the marina had built to four to five feet and looked uncomfortably choppy, but it would all 'lay down' by Saturday morning. So we had a lovely day, sitting on the beach, swimming and snorkelling, and chatting with many of the boaters we knew from our trips around the Abacos. That evening we had a 'Last Party in Paradise', swapped stories, drank wine, and generally got up our courage for the next day's crossing. By 7:30 a.m. the next morning most of the docks were empty and the marina was left to slumber in the sunshine. The flotilla had set sail.
Our crossing was fine. It was 'lumpy' to start off, but soon the waves calmed down and the wind blew from the right direction. The flotilla chatted happily to each other on the VHF radios, and we made it to Lake Worth's peaceful northern anchorage in ten and a half hours. The next day we travelled up the Intra-Coastal Waterway to 'home base' - Harbortown Marina at Fort Pierce.
We've been here at our dock for just over a week. Many of the Bahamas boaters are docked here, or have called off here on their trips north. The Tiki Bar is buzzing with tales of the sea. Our friends, Gloria and Frank from Toronto, are staying nearby in Vero Beach, and we'll be seeing more of them during the rest of our stay. Otherwise we are trying to 'party down'! Even the marina held a barbecue party last Saturday.......and so the festivities continue and the sun shines......though not all the time. We've had a few gray days, and stormy winds, but no snow so far! We haven't set a date yet for the boat to be hauled out, but we will probably have it done by the end of next week - 26/27 April.
Another wonderful winter is comng to an end, but no one around here says "goodbye" at the end of the season, just "same time next year".
Monday, March 31, 2014
Saturday, March 29, 2014
'It Don't Get Better Than This' - the title of a Barefoot Man song.
The day of the Barefoot Man concert dawned clear and blue. The docks at Orchid Bay Marina were abuzz from early morning with plans for the big day ahead. The concert (party) was due to start at 1 p.m., but the sandy path leading up to Nippers Bar was thronged with Barefoot pilgrims from early in the day.
How to describe the day? The only way is to use the title of a Barefoot Man song - "It Don't Get Better Than This"! The sun shone, the beer flowed, we were surrounded by so many boating friends from around the Abacos, and we became so hoarse with singing along with Barefoot Man, that we had to order more beers, and then some more. We wandered down to the lovely beach and cooled our heels in the warm Atlantic waters, and then, once more, joined the throng. Barefoot Man didn't seem to need a break, and carried on and on as the audience danced and sang this lovely afternoon away.
But all good things must eventually come to an end. As the sun sank closer to the horizon we wandered down the sandy track back to Orchid Bay and had a lovely dinner watching the sun set over the crystal clear waters of the Sea of Abaco. As a perfect ending to a perfect day, some of us actually saw the 'Green Flash' - a prismatic effect of the setting sun and only rarely to be seen in the tropics on crystal clear days.
The next day we set off for a sail of about 10 miles across to 'Treasure Cay'. The wind got up on this short trip and we managed a nice sail. Our crew, John & Alex, were happy to have the engine turned off and the sails full! We stayed at Treasure Cay for a night and sunbathed and swam at the lovely crescent-shaped white sand beach. The next day we made our way back to Hope Town. The day was perfectly blue, but the wind was light and on the nose. We sunbathed and relaxed. We had left 'Reserved' cans on our mooring ball in Hope Town harbour as we had paid for a month's stay.
But would you believe it......we found a boat had tied up to it! The air was blue with our comments as we headed for this rogue boat and asked (told) it to move off!! Mary was steering 'Southern Vectis' with first mate Alex, and we just skated past the side of this offender! They left quickly, and we tied up successfully at the end of our five day sailing adventure with our perfect crew.
John and Alex had three more days back at the Hope Town Marina Hotel, and we dinghied over most mornings to meet them for coffee and/or breakfast. We rented bikes and cycled to the south end of Elbow Cay one day, and had lunch at the Abaco Inn. We had dinner at Capt'n Jack's but didn't manage to get there early enough to snag a table for the Bingo! On our last night we had a lovely dinner at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge. And then we sadly had to say 'goodbye' to our lovely guests as they left for their flights over to the next part of their Bahamas adventure on Harbour Island, Eleuthera. We miss them, but hope they will return soon.....most people do!
How to describe the day? The only way is to use the title of a Barefoot Man song - "It Don't Get Better Than This"! The sun shone, the beer flowed, we were surrounded by so many boating friends from around the Abacos, and we became so hoarse with singing along with Barefoot Man, that we had to order more beers, and then some more. We wandered down to the lovely beach and cooled our heels in the warm Atlantic waters, and then, once more, joined the throng. Barefoot Man didn't seem to need a break, and carried on and on as the audience danced and sang this lovely afternoon away.
But all good things must eventually come to an end. As the sun sank closer to the horizon we wandered down the sandy track back to Orchid Bay and had a lovely dinner watching the sun set over the crystal clear waters of the Sea of Abaco. As a perfect ending to a perfect day, some of us actually saw the 'Green Flash' - a prismatic effect of the setting sun and only rarely to be seen in the tropics on crystal clear days.
The next day we set off for a sail of about 10 miles across to 'Treasure Cay'. The wind got up on this short trip and we managed a nice sail. Our crew, John & Alex, were happy to have the engine turned off and the sails full! We stayed at Treasure Cay for a night and sunbathed and swam at the lovely crescent-shaped white sand beach. The next day we made our way back to Hope Town. The day was perfectly blue, but the wind was light and on the nose. We sunbathed and relaxed. We had left 'Reserved' cans on our mooring ball in Hope Town harbour as we had paid for a month's stay.
But would you believe it......we found a boat had tied up to it! The air was blue with our comments as we headed for this rogue boat and asked (told) it to move off!! Mary was steering 'Southern Vectis' with first mate Alex, and we just skated past the side of this offender! They left quickly, and we tied up successfully at the end of our five day sailing adventure with our perfect crew.
John and Alex had three more days back at the Hope Town Marina Hotel, and we dinghied over most mornings to meet them for coffee and/or breakfast. We rented bikes and cycled to the south end of Elbow Cay one day, and had lunch at the Abaco Inn. We had dinner at Capt'n Jack's but didn't manage to get there early enough to snag a table for the Bingo! On our last night we had a lovely dinner at the Hope Town Harbour Lodge. And then we sadly had to say 'goodbye' to our lovely guests as they left for their flights over to the next part of their Bahamas adventure on Harbour Island, Eleuthera. We miss them, but hope they will return soon.....most people do!
Friday, March 21, 2014
Adventures with John & Alex. Part 1.
Mary's brother and sister-in-law, John & Alex, arrived in the Abacos on Monday. They had flown from London, England, and spent a night in Nassau en route. We went over by ferry from Hope Town to Marsh Harbour and met them off their Bahamas air flight. As we had a few hours to wait before our return ferry to Hope Town, we had lunch at 'Mangoes' on the harbour. We were also lucky enough to catch a sighting of the 'Barefoot Man' himself as he passed by on his way to the Guana Cay ferry to prepare for his concert on Friday! More about him to come later! John and Alex are staying, while not on 'Southern Vectis', at the lovely Hope Town Hotel and Marina. Their room overlooks the harbour. They are breaking up their stay at the hotel with a four day cruise around the Sea of Abaco on 'Southern Vectis'.
A 'cold front' rolled into the Abacos the day after their arrival, but although the winds blew up and the Sea of Abaco looked like a washing machine, we didn't mind. John and Alex needed a day to just relax and wander, and that is what we did. We walked to the north end of Elbow Cay, and had lunch at the Hope Town Lodge, dodging the occasional rain squall.
On Wednesday the clouds had disappeared and the weather forecast for the next few days was set to fair if not perfect! John & Alex came aboard and we set off for a sail and an overnight anchorage to the south of Elbow Cay, beside Tahiti Beach. The sea and the sky were a matching blue as we dropped our anchor. Beside us was 'Grey North', with Glen, Louise and their family. We dinghied in to the beach, which is only uncovered at low tide, and wandered and swam in the warm sunshine. Later we went for drinks on 'Grey North', and then back to 'Southern Vectis' for a steak BBQ. We had a perfectly calm night just swinging gently on our anchor.
The next day our destination was Orchid Bay Marina on Guana Cay, where we had a dock reserved for two nights to see the 'Barefoot Man' concert. On the way we had a lunchtime anchorage off 'Man O' War Cay' and dinghied in to have an ice cream and wander along the quaint main street. After a refreshing swim off the boat we made our way to Guana Cay. It seems that most of the boats from the harbours in and around the Abaco are here too! We contacted our boating friends from last year, Ron and Jane, who are staying at 'Grabbers', and had a great evening beside the beach at Fisher's Bay. As the crimson sunset turned to night, the anchor lights of the fifty or so boats anchored in the harbour looked like a whole floating city, and competed with the bright and starry night sky.
The next installment will tell of our adventures at the 'Barefoot Man' concert later today at 'Nippers Bar'!
A 'cold front' rolled into the Abacos the day after their arrival, but although the winds blew up and the Sea of Abaco looked like a washing machine, we didn't mind. John and Alex needed a day to just relax and wander, and that is what we did. We walked to the north end of Elbow Cay, and had lunch at the Hope Town Lodge, dodging the occasional rain squall.
On Wednesday the clouds had disappeared and the weather forecast for the next few days was set to fair if not perfect! John & Alex came aboard and we set off for a sail and an overnight anchorage to the south of Elbow Cay, beside Tahiti Beach. The sea and the sky were a matching blue as we dropped our anchor. Beside us was 'Grey North', with Glen, Louise and their family. We dinghied in to the beach, which is only uncovered at low tide, and wandered and swam in the warm sunshine. Later we went for drinks on 'Grey North', and then back to 'Southern Vectis' for a steak BBQ. We had a perfectly calm night just swinging gently on our anchor.
The next day our destination was Orchid Bay Marina on Guana Cay, where we had a dock reserved for two nights to see the 'Barefoot Man' concert. On the way we had a lunchtime anchorage off 'Man O' War Cay' and dinghied in to have an ice cream and wander along the quaint main street. After a refreshing swim off the boat we made our way to Guana Cay. It seems that most of the boats from the harbours in and around the Abaco are here too! We contacted our boating friends from last year, Ron and Jane, who are staying at 'Grabbers', and had a great evening beside the beach at Fisher's Bay. As the crimson sunset turned to night, the anchor lights of the fifty or so boats anchored in the harbour looked like a whole floating city, and competed with the bright and starry night sky.
The next installment will tell of our adventures at the 'Barefoot Man' concert later today at 'Nippers Bar'!
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
And so to Hope Town, beautiful Hope Town.
We left Treasure Cay on a blustery, warm day, to sail 12 miles east across the Sea of Abaco to Marsh Harbour. The water was quite choppy, but still crystal clear so that we could look down and see the sandy and sometimes rocky bottom. The Sea of Abaco is only about 12 foot deep, after all!
In Marsh Harbour we docked at our favourite marina, 'Harbour View', and soon met up with some old friends from previous years. Richard, keeper of the Sunday afternoon bocce ball game trophies, was there, as were Patrick and Sarah, the crew of a large and luxurious motor cruiser, which sits at the end of the dock awaiting occasional visits from its' owner. We had a good evening meeting other dock residents at a BBQ and Trivia evening, and discovered that we are not good at trivia, particularly when it's all about basketball!
After three days we sailed over to Hope Town. It was a sparkling day and we were excited that we were heading for the end of the rainbow - lovely Elbow Cay with Hope Town as its' pot of gold. The entrance to Hope Town harbour is very shallow, and, with our five foot draft, we can only enter two hours either side of the tide. The harbour is very busy at this time of year, and we were happy that we had reserved one of Capt'n Jack's mooring balls. As we entered the harbour we saw boats cruising through the tight mooring field, searching for somewhere to tie up. It's a competitive sport, and one we didn't want to get involved in! We had called Capt'n Jack on our VHF radio, and, as we entered the harbour, there he was, waiting to hand us our mooring line, on the same mooring ball as last year. It turns out that he had to shoo three boats off before our arrival! What service! Capt'n Jack also owns the pink restaurant just off our stern and we'll visit there often for Happy Hours!
Next to us in the harbour is 'Gray North', with Glen and Louisa aboard. We first met them six years ago, and it's always good to see them again. They jumped on board to welcome us after we tied up, and much gin was consumed as we swapped news and views! Glen and Louise are building a house here on Elbow Cay, and they took us to see its' progress. It's a very exciting project with some very unique design features. We all went for lunch at the lovely 'Firefly'.
There are so many boats here that we know from previous trips, and people are referred to by their boat names first, before their actual names. 'Diva', with Benoit and Margaret from Kingston, Ontario, is docked at Hope Town Marina, as is 'Bohemia', with Pierre and Francine from Quebec. Yesterday afternoon we took 'Southern Vectis' out of the harbour, and went a little way south to swim. When we arrived back at our mooring, 'Tosmo', with Steve and Debbie, was just tying up. We joined them for drinks on board, and then dinghied over to Capt'n Jack's for dinner.
We love being on our mooring and we love being in Hope Town and watching the world go by. Next week our guests, John and Alex, arrive. We are looking forward very much to showing them how very special the Abaco Islands are.
In Marsh Harbour we docked at our favourite marina, 'Harbour View', and soon met up with some old friends from previous years. Richard, keeper of the Sunday afternoon bocce ball game trophies, was there, as were Patrick and Sarah, the crew of a large and luxurious motor cruiser, which sits at the end of the dock awaiting occasional visits from its' owner. We had a good evening meeting other dock residents at a BBQ and Trivia evening, and discovered that we are not good at trivia, particularly when it's all about basketball!
After three days we sailed over to Hope Town. It was a sparkling day and we were excited that we were heading for the end of the rainbow - lovely Elbow Cay with Hope Town as its' pot of gold. The entrance to Hope Town harbour is very shallow, and, with our five foot draft, we can only enter two hours either side of the tide. The harbour is very busy at this time of year, and we were happy that we had reserved one of Capt'n Jack's mooring balls. As we entered the harbour we saw boats cruising through the tight mooring field, searching for somewhere to tie up. It's a competitive sport, and one we didn't want to get involved in! We had called Capt'n Jack on our VHF radio, and, as we entered the harbour, there he was, waiting to hand us our mooring line, on the same mooring ball as last year. It turns out that he had to shoo three boats off before our arrival! What service! Capt'n Jack also owns the pink restaurant just off our stern and we'll visit there often for Happy Hours!
Next to us in the harbour is 'Gray North', with Glen and Louisa aboard. We first met them six years ago, and it's always good to see them again. They jumped on board to welcome us after we tied up, and much gin was consumed as we swapped news and views! Glen and Louise are building a house here on Elbow Cay, and they took us to see its' progress. It's a very exciting project with some very unique design features. We all went for lunch at the lovely 'Firefly'.
There are so many boats here that we know from previous trips, and people are referred to by their boat names first, before their actual names. 'Diva', with Benoit and Margaret from Kingston, Ontario, is docked at Hope Town Marina, as is 'Bohemia', with Pierre and Francine from Quebec. Yesterday afternoon we took 'Southern Vectis' out of the harbour, and went a little way south to swim. When we arrived back at our mooring, 'Tosmo', with Steve and Debbie, was just tying up. We joined them for drinks on board, and then dinghied over to Capt'n Jack's for dinner.
We love being on our mooring and we love being in Hope Town and watching the world go by. Next week our guests, John and Alex, arrive. We are looking forward very much to showing them how very special the Abaco Islands are.
Sunday, March 2, 2014
Saturday, March 1, 2014
Sunshine and squalls
March 1, 2014
We spent four wonderfully relaxing days at the Green Turtle Club. We rented a golf cart and drove through the narrow, bumpy lanes into the picturesque 'settlement' of New Plymouth. Lunch was a plate of delicious conch fritters at the 'Wreckers' Tree Cafe. We visited the tiny museum which charts the settlement's history from the 1780's, when those loyal to the British Crown fled the U.S. mainland in the hope that they could continue their gracious lifestyles far from the harassment of those disloyal colonials over the water. All their belongings, including the family silver, and, of course, their slaves, came with them to these beautiful but windswept, sandy shores. Most failed in their initial endeavours, but the hardier ones stuck it out and diversified. Logging, sponge fishing, sisal and pineapple farming and wrecking all had their day, only to fail in the end. Gun running for the Confederates in the American Civil War, and booze running during Prohibition gave the islands a temporary boost. Nowadays tourism is the main industry.
Back at our dock we met some fellow boaters and got together for drinks and dinners in the Green Turtle Club's cozy bar. Dave and Judy on their Bristol 31, 'Wren', were on their return journey back to the mainland after lots of adventures in the Abacos and Exuma Islands. Pierre and Francine from Quebec invited us for drinks aboard their super-luxury 72 foot Marlowe cruiser and joined the gang for dinner. Each day we wandered the lanes and beaches making the most of each calm and sun-filled day.
On Sunday 23 February it was time to move on. We waved a fond farewell to our Green Turtle heaven and set off to get ourselves across 'The Whale', the tricky 'cut' in from the Atlantic Ocean, which can boil up in a rage under certain conditions. That day looked perfect. The weather forecast was good and there were just a few puffy white clouds sitting on the horizon as we left at midday to get through the shallow White Sound entrance channel. As we approached the Whale Rock we noticed that the puffy white clouds had suddenly become black clouds and were rapidly moving our way. The seas were quite calm still and so was the wind, but the sky was becoming black. We took in our sails as the rainstorm hit. Visibility, as we passed the rocky channel, closed in, but there was nothing we could do but carry on, so we did! Thank goodness for Chart Plotters and GPS. As visibility lifted a little we saw a sailboat heading our way, struggling to get its sails down. We each managed a resigned wave as we all had our hands full!
But all's well that ends well and eventually the dark skies lightened and the shores of Great Guana Cay hove into view. We picked up a mooring ball in the sheltered harbour and spent the next two days enjoying the delights of Guana which, of course, included dallying at Grabber's Bar on Fisher's Bay, and, of course, Nipper's Bar, high above the blue ocean, and home to the 'Barefoot Man' concerts. We'll be returning here for this year's concert with my brother and sister-in-law, so we managed to reserve one of the last slips at the Orchid Bay Marina for our return. Great Guana's anchorages, moorings and slips will be filled to bursting that weekend.
From Guana we made a short passage towards Treasure Cay. We anchored for lunch and snorkelling en route and met some more friendly boaters - all Canadians. We tarried longer than we should have at anchor and thunder was growling as we made our way quickly to a dock at Treasure Cay. A bad 'cold front' was forecast and the docks were filling up fast. We had a day and a half of idyllic weather - time to swim and sunbathe on Treasure Cays miles long white sand beach. Then the cold front arrived with 30 knot winds and two days of heavy, squally rain. Despite this we managed an enjoyable evening out at 'Pizza Night' at the Tipsy Seagull Bar and enjoyed hearing 'Burner's' crooning once again.
Today the sky is a clear blue once again and we have a busy day ahead of us. The library is holding book sale (Ahhh....books - the cruiser's lifeline, especially when your Kindle is out of action, as ours is!) This afternoon our favourite local singer, 'Brown Tip', will be performing at Coco's Beach Bar. We'll be there!
We spent four wonderfully relaxing days at the Green Turtle Club. We rented a golf cart and drove through the narrow, bumpy lanes into the picturesque 'settlement' of New Plymouth. Lunch was a plate of delicious conch fritters at the 'Wreckers' Tree Cafe. We visited the tiny museum which charts the settlement's history from the 1780's, when those loyal to the British Crown fled the U.S. mainland in the hope that they could continue their gracious lifestyles far from the harassment of those disloyal colonials over the water. All their belongings, including the family silver, and, of course, their slaves, came with them to these beautiful but windswept, sandy shores. Most failed in their initial endeavours, but the hardier ones stuck it out and diversified. Logging, sponge fishing, sisal and pineapple farming and wrecking all had their day, only to fail in the end. Gun running for the Confederates in the American Civil War, and booze running during Prohibition gave the islands a temporary boost. Nowadays tourism is the main industry.
Back at our dock we met some fellow boaters and got together for drinks and dinners in the Green Turtle Club's cozy bar. Dave and Judy on their Bristol 31, 'Wren', were on their return journey back to the mainland after lots of adventures in the Abacos and Exuma Islands. Pierre and Francine from Quebec invited us for drinks aboard their super-luxury 72 foot Marlowe cruiser and joined the gang for dinner. Each day we wandered the lanes and beaches making the most of each calm and sun-filled day.
On Sunday 23 February it was time to move on. We waved a fond farewell to our Green Turtle heaven and set off to get ourselves across 'The Whale', the tricky 'cut' in from the Atlantic Ocean, which can boil up in a rage under certain conditions. That day looked perfect. The weather forecast was good and there were just a few puffy white clouds sitting on the horizon as we left at midday to get through the shallow White Sound entrance channel. As we approached the Whale Rock we noticed that the puffy white clouds had suddenly become black clouds and were rapidly moving our way. The seas were quite calm still and so was the wind, but the sky was becoming black. We took in our sails as the rainstorm hit. Visibility, as we passed the rocky channel, closed in, but there was nothing we could do but carry on, so we did! Thank goodness for Chart Plotters and GPS. As visibility lifted a little we saw a sailboat heading our way, struggling to get its sails down. We each managed a resigned wave as we all had our hands full!
But all's well that ends well and eventually the dark skies lightened and the shores of Great Guana Cay hove into view. We picked up a mooring ball in the sheltered harbour and spent the next two days enjoying the delights of Guana which, of course, included dallying at Grabber's Bar on Fisher's Bay, and, of course, Nipper's Bar, high above the blue ocean, and home to the 'Barefoot Man' concerts. We'll be returning here for this year's concert with my brother and sister-in-law, so we managed to reserve one of the last slips at the Orchid Bay Marina for our return. Great Guana's anchorages, moorings and slips will be filled to bursting that weekend.
From Guana we made a short passage towards Treasure Cay. We anchored for lunch and snorkelling en route and met some more friendly boaters - all Canadians. We tarried longer than we should have at anchor and thunder was growling as we made our way quickly to a dock at Treasure Cay. A bad 'cold front' was forecast and the docks were filling up fast. We had a day and a half of idyllic weather - time to swim and sunbathe on Treasure Cays miles long white sand beach. Then the cold front arrived with 30 knot winds and two days of heavy, squally rain. Despite this we managed an enjoyable evening out at 'Pizza Night' at the Tipsy Seagull Bar and enjoyed hearing 'Burner's' crooning once again.
Today the sky is a clear blue once again and we have a busy day ahead of us. The library is holding book sale (Ahhh....books - the cruiser's lifeline, especially when your Kindle is out of action, as ours is!) This afternoon our favourite local singer, 'Brown Tip', will be performing at Coco's Beach Bar. We'll be there!
Friday, February 21, 2014
Thursday, February 20, 2014
We do a 'Sailfy' across the Gulf Stream
February 20, 2014
The day finally arrived. Tension built. Laundry and last shopping was all done. Weather guru Chris Parker was off the air for a couple of days, but the wind and waves on 'Passage Weather' looked fine. We hadn't managed to find a 'buddy boat' to accompany us on the crossing, so decided to do a 'sailfy'! We left our float plan with our daughter, Charlotte, in Victoria, with instructions to call the coastguard if they received a 'Help' message sent from our 'Spot' satellite positioning system. I think they checked their smart phone every hour! Thanks guys!
Even though we got up at 4 a.m. there was a small moment of panic when we almost missed the 5 a.m. 17th Street bridge opening. Then the moment of panic returned once we were through the bridge when, what we had thought was a well lit highrise building, seemed to be moving our way. As we moved out into the entrance channel we realized that it was a cruise ship coming home to roost!
We scuttled over to the south side of the channel and watched with awe as this vast liner slid by only about 50 metres to our port side without leaving any wake. This was only the first in a line of six huge ships coming in close on each others' tail to disgorge their thousands of sleeping (at the moment) passengers. No one seemed to be on the decks or watching from their balconies to wave to us! We picked the beautiful "Allure of the Seas" for our next cruise!
Our crossing to the Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End, Grand Bahama Island, took 10 1/2 hours. It was cold to start with and we were well wrapped up. For the first half of the trip we motor-sailed in 3 - 5 foot waves with 16 knot winds. Once we caught the Gulf Stream current we were doing 8 1/2 knots - really fast for us. Then, in mid-passage, the wind turned on the nose and waves went down to almost nothing. We made landfall at 3:45 p.m.
The weather forecast was set fair for days ahead so we set off the next morning to head for the anchorage at Great Sale Cay - the halfway point to Green Turtle Cay. The tide was right for us to take the Indian Cay Passage instead of going around Memory Rock. Indian Cay is a rock strewn, shallow passage just to the west of West End. It is a good short cut for those with strong nerves!
The wind, what there was of it, was on the nose, so we motored across the Little Bahama Banks for 8 hours and arrived at the anchorage just before sunset. The water on the Banks was crystal clear and bright turquoise and the sky a clear and shimmering blue. We were the only boat to be seen, though we met up with three other boats at Great Sale. We celebrated our half-way point with a delicious BBQ of lamb chops. The next day we meandered more slowly, and, as the weather was so perfect, explored another anchorage area at Crab Cay, beside Angelfish Cay. It was shallow and very quiet. The moon was full and we played music to keep ourselves company - 'Moonlight Sonata' floated out across the deserted water and neighboring islets, followed by the 'Warsaw Concerto' - the wonderful theme from the old movie "Dangerous Moonlight".
It took us three hours to get to Green Turtle Cay the next day. The weather is still beautiful, and we will spend a few days here 'eating our dock' - offsetting our restaurant bill against our dock fee.
The day finally arrived. Tension built. Laundry and last shopping was all done. Weather guru Chris Parker was off the air for a couple of days, but the wind and waves on 'Passage Weather' looked fine. We hadn't managed to find a 'buddy boat' to accompany us on the crossing, so decided to do a 'sailfy'! We left our float plan with our daughter, Charlotte, in Victoria, with instructions to call the coastguard if they received a 'Help' message sent from our 'Spot' satellite positioning system. I think they checked their smart phone every hour! Thanks guys!
Even though we got up at 4 a.m. there was a small moment of panic when we almost missed the 5 a.m. 17th Street bridge opening. Then the moment of panic returned once we were through the bridge when, what we had thought was a well lit highrise building, seemed to be moving our way. As we moved out into the entrance channel we realized that it was a cruise ship coming home to roost!
We scuttled over to the south side of the channel and watched with awe as this vast liner slid by only about 50 metres to our port side without leaving any wake. This was only the first in a line of six huge ships coming in close on each others' tail to disgorge their thousands of sleeping (at the moment) passengers. No one seemed to be on the decks or watching from their balconies to wave to us! We picked the beautiful "Allure of the Seas" for our next cruise!
Our crossing to the Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End, Grand Bahama Island, took 10 1/2 hours. It was cold to start with and we were well wrapped up. For the first half of the trip we motor-sailed in 3 - 5 foot waves with 16 knot winds. Once we caught the Gulf Stream current we were doing 8 1/2 knots - really fast for us. Then, in mid-passage, the wind turned on the nose and waves went down to almost nothing. We made landfall at 3:45 p.m.
The weather forecast was set fair for days ahead so we set off the next morning to head for the anchorage at Great Sale Cay - the halfway point to Green Turtle Cay. The tide was right for us to take the Indian Cay Passage instead of going around Memory Rock. Indian Cay is a rock strewn, shallow passage just to the west of West End. It is a good short cut for those with strong nerves!
The wind, what there was of it, was on the nose, so we motored across the Little Bahama Banks for 8 hours and arrived at the anchorage just before sunset. The water on the Banks was crystal clear and bright turquoise and the sky a clear and shimmering blue. We were the only boat to be seen, though we met up with three other boats at Great Sale. We celebrated our half-way point with a delicious BBQ of lamb chops. The next day we meandered more slowly, and, as the weather was so perfect, explored another anchorage area at Crab Cay, beside Angelfish Cay. It was shallow and very quiet. The moon was full and we played music to keep ourselves company - 'Moonlight Sonata' floated out across the deserted water and neighboring islets, followed by the 'Warsaw Concerto' - the wonderful theme from the old movie "Dangerous Moonlight".
It took us three hours to get to Green Turtle Cay the next day. The weather is still beautiful, and we will spend a few days here 'eating our dock' - offsetting our restaurant bill against our dock fee.
Saturday, February 15, 2014
Sunshine, beaches and 'Happy Hours' in Ft. Lauderdale
February 15, 2014
A week ago today we chose the 'outside' route from Lake Worth to Ft. Lauderdale. The wind was on the nose, as usual, so we motored through fairly heavy seas. We were happy to avoid the eighteen bridges and mad weekend boat traffic on the ICW. When we crossed under the S.E. 17th Street Causeway bridge at the entrance to Port Everglades harbour, pursued by everything from jet-skis to 80 foot motor cruisers, we were sure we'd be anchoring for the night in Lake Sylvia, an almost land-locked 'pond' of water surrounded by spectacular houses, and not a bad place to be at all. However, our first choice would have been to find an empty mooring ball at Las Olas Marina. We felt we stood no chance. But, just in case, we headed up towards Las Olas bridge and, to our surprise and delight, found that only two balls of the ten were occupied. We grabbed one and breathed a sigh of relief. That evening we knew why there were so many empty moorings: extensive work was being done on the bridge and this work carried on throughout the night! Rumblings and roarings of machines, and annoying beeping from trucks backing up to disgorge their loads have become commonplace to all us moored boats. All ten moorings are full now and life goes on regardless. Earplugs, bought at the local CVS Drug Store, are flying off the shelves. One night welders working on the side of the bridge lit up the night with crackling and flying sparks, and seemed totally unaware of the large catamaran moored almost directly beneath them.
Despite all of the above, how could we fail to enjoy the many delights and sunny days of Ft. Lauderdale? We discovered that our 'buddy boat' from Ft. Pierce, 'Alize', with Dick & Margaret aboard, was docked at the marina, so we introduced them to some of our favourite haunts, such as 'Casablanca Bar' and the nearby 'Quarter Deck'. We've strolled the beach, had coffee at 'H2O', drinks at 'Bahia Cabana' and juicy oysters at the 'Southport Raw Bar'. We became tourists for a day, took the water-taxi into downtown, and ate lunch at 'Indigo' outside the Riverview Hotel. Unfortunately Margaret had to fly back to Cleveland for a few days to see her sick mother, so we've been keeping Dick company until she comes back to the boat next week.
All this time, of course, we have been waiting for a 'weather window' to get us over to the Bahamas. We check all our weather forecasts daily and sometimes seem to see an opportunity, only to see it fall through with a surprise 'ridge' or 'cold front' which does not behave as expected. We remain confident that one day soon we shall have to leave this lovely place and set out across those wild Atlantic rollers. We keep our fingers crossed that they won't be too wild!
A week ago today we chose the 'outside' route from Lake Worth to Ft. Lauderdale. The wind was on the nose, as usual, so we motored through fairly heavy seas. We were happy to avoid the eighteen bridges and mad weekend boat traffic on the ICW. When we crossed under the S.E. 17th Street Causeway bridge at the entrance to Port Everglades harbour, pursued by everything from jet-skis to 80 foot motor cruisers, we were sure we'd be anchoring for the night in Lake Sylvia, an almost land-locked 'pond' of water surrounded by spectacular houses, and not a bad place to be at all. However, our first choice would have been to find an empty mooring ball at Las Olas Marina. We felt we stood no chance. But, just in case, we headed up towards Las Olas bridge and, to our surprise and delight, found that only two balls of the ten were occupied. We grabbed one and breathed a sigh of relief. That evening we knew why there were so many empty moorings: extensive work was being done on the bridge and this work carried on throughout the night! Rumblings and roarings of machines, and annoying beeping from trucks backing up to disgorge their loads have become commonplace to all us moored boats. All ten moorings are full now and life goes on regardless. Earplugs, bought at the local CVS Drug Store, are flying off the shelves. One night welders working on the side of the bridge lit up the night with crackling and flying sparks, and seemed totally unaware of the large catamaran moored almost directly beneath them.
Despite all of the above, how could we fail to enjoy the many delights and sunny days of Ft. Lauderdale? We discovered that our 'buddy boat' from Ft. Pierce, 'Alize', with Dick & Margaret aboard, was docked at the marina, so we introduced them to some of our favourite haunts, such as 'Casablanca Bar' and the nearby 'Quarter Deck'. We've strolled the beach, had coffee at 'H2O', drinks at 'Bahia Cabana' and juicy oysters at the 'Southport Raw Bar'. We became tourists for a day, took the water-taxi into downtown, and ate lunch at 'Indigo' outside the Riverview Hotel. Unfortunately Margaret had to fly back to Cleveland for a few days to see her sick mother, so we've been keeping Dick company until she comes back to the boat next week.
All this time, of course, we have been waiting for a 'weather window' to get us over to the Bahamas. We check all our weather forecasts daily and sometimes seem to see an opportunity, only to see it fall through with a surprise 'ridge' or 'cold front' which does not behave as expected. We remain confident that one day soon we shall have to leave this lovely place and set out across those wild Atlantic rollers. We keep our fingers crossed that they won't be too wild!
Friday, February 7, 2014
DECISIONS AND DELAYS
February 7, 2014
We are now at anchor in Lake Worth, Palm Beach. Last Monday we set off from Ft. Pierce in the company of Dick and Margaret on Alize, their beautiful 42 foot Beneteau. As usual, we had enjoyed our time at Harbortown Marina and met up with old friends, Al and Maggie, Sigita and Martin and Fred and Debbie, from our previous sailing adventures.
We had decided to sail to Lake Worth down 'the outside', but changed our mind the day before our departure because of our Sunday afternoon drive to the mouth of the Ft. Pierce inlet! It was a beautiful and seemingly calm day. The sea wall was busy with people and sea birds of all sorts, but what caught our eye immediately was the large sailboat struggling against waves and rolling in the huge current at the mouth of the inlet. At one point it looked as though it would be dragged onto the rocks. Luckily it just made it through. There aren't too many 'good' inlets for sailboats along the east coast, but Ft. Pierce is one of them! However, timing is crucial. The devil's brew of wind against tide can be fatal. It was a sobering experience!
Our trip to Lake Worth down the Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) took us about 8 hours. It went fairly smoothly except for a heavy downpour and being at the mercy of the sometimes cranky bridge-captains of the seven opening road-bridges en route. We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached our peaceful anchorage in the north end of Lake Worth. Next day we relaxed, took the dinghy and had lunch at the 'Rum Bar', beside one of those pesky ICW bridges.
We had signed on to get Chris Parker's e-mail weather forecasts and knew that there were 'weather windows' for a Gulf Stream crossing coming up in the next two days. We had already changed our plan and decided not to go on to Miami, so decided we would make the crossing along with other boats who had been waiting for the window. It was not to be. We discovered that our batteries were not holding an electrical charge, and we needed to buy new ones. We made arrangements to go into New Port Cove Marina and have them installed. So, two days later, the batteries were installed, our faulty alternator was fixed and the 'weather window' had closed! We did think of making a 'dash' across the Gulf Stream tonight, but were saved from our foolishness by the arrival of un-forecast 18 knot winds! But we are happy with our decision, because now it means we can go to Ft. Lauderdale tomorrow and wait for the next weather window there. But will we take the 'outside' route or struggle through the eighteen bridges on the ICW? Watch this space.
We are now at anchor in Lake Worth, Palm Beach. Last Monday we set off from Ft. Pierce in the company of Dick and Margaret on Alize, their beautiful 42 foot Beneteau. As usual, we had enjoyed our time at Harbortown Marina and met up with old friends, Al and Maggie, Sigita and Martin and Fred and Debbie, from our previous sailing adventures.
We had decided to sail to Lake Worth down 'the outside', but changed our mind the day before our departure because of our Sunday afternoon drive to the mouth of the Ft. Pierce inlet! It was a beautiful and seemingly calm day. The sea wall was busy with people and sea birds of all sorts, but what caught our eye immediately was the large sailboat struggling against waves and rolling in the huge current at the mouth of the inlet. At one point it looked as though it would be dragged onto the rocks. Luckily it just made it through. There aren't too many 'good' inlets for sailboats along the east coast, but Ft. Pierce is one of them! However, timing is crucial. The devil's brew of wind against tide can be fatal. It was a sobering experience!
Our trip to Lake Worth down the Intra-Coastal Waterway (ICW) took us about 8 hours. It went fairly smoothly except for a heavy downpour and being at the mercy of the sometimes cranky bridge-captains of the seven opening road-bridges en route. We breathed a sigh of relief when we reached our peaceful anchorage in the north end of Lake Worth. Next day we relaxed, took the dinghy and had lunch at the 'Rum Bar', beside one of those pesky ICW bridges.
We had signed on to get Chris Parker's e-mail weather forecasts and knew that there were 'weather windows' for a Gulf Stream crossing coming up in the next two days. We had already changed our plan and decided not to go on to Miami, so decided we would make the crossing along with other boats who had been waiting for the window. It was not to be. We discovered that our batteries were not holding an electrical charge, and we needed to buy new ones. We made arrangements to go into New Port Cove Marina and have them installed. So, two days later, the batteries were installed, our faulty alternator was fixed and the 'weather window' had closed! We did think of making a 'dash' across the Gulf Stream tonight, but were saved from our foolishness by the arrival of un-forecast 18 knot winds! But we are happy with our decision, because now it means we can go to Ft. Lauderdale tomorrow and wait for the next weather window there. But will we take the 'outside' route or struggle through the eighteen bridges on the ICW? Watch this space.
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
Still tied tightly to our dock at Harbortown Marina
I am writing this while sitting in our cozy cabin on Southern Vectis, with all the cabin lights blazing, and our little electric heater puffing out much-needed hot air. The next cold front (from Canada, of course, say all our neighbours!) has arrived, and we are resigned to waiting out a couple of rough days. While I listen to the rain beating on our deck, I am thinking of where we were this time yesterday. We had taken a picnic to our favourite beach at Outlet Park, and were sun-bathing and watching surfers catch the few waves that disturbed the glassy surface of the Atlantic Ocean. The temperature was a balmy 25C. Later in the day we sat on our deck as the sun set, swapping tall boating tales with fellow sailors we have met up with over the past few years - Ross and Valerie from Toronto and Dick and Margaret from Cleveland. What a difference a day makes! Luckily the warm weather is due to return by Friday.
Most of the jobs that needed doing on the boat have been done. The decks are polished, the new bilge pump is installed, the woodwork in the cabin is gleaming with teak oil, and the outboard motor and dinghy are in place on the stern. We'll sign ourselves up to receive our weather guru, Chris Parker's, e-mail weather service this weekend and then make some plans.
We've had two very enjoyable get-togethers with Eileen and John, friends from the RCYC who travelled with us on our first trip over to the Abacos in January 2009. Their lovely boat, a Nordic Tug, has spent time back in Toronto, and also on the east coast, since then. Now it is nearby, in Hinckley's boatyard in Stuart, undergoing some repairs prior to being sold. We drove to have lunch with Eileen and John at one of our favourite restaurants, 'The Sailors' Return' at the 'Sunset Bay Marina' in Stuart. The following day they dropped by to see us at Harbortown, en route for a visit (by car) with family on the west coast of Florida. We hope the boat repairs go smoothly, and that a buyer will soon appear for the lovely 'Somewhere in Time'.
Most of the jobs that needed doing on the boat have been done. The decks are polished, the new bilge pump is installed, the woodwork in the cabin is gleaming with teak oil, and the outboard motor and dinghy are in place on the stern. We'll sign ourselves up to receive our weather guru, Chris Parker's, e-mail weather service this weekend and then make some plans.
We've had two very enjoyable get-togethers with Eileen and John, friends from the RCYC who travelled with us on our first trip over to the Abacos in January 2009. Their lovely boat, a Nordic Tug, has spent time back in Toronto, and also on the east coast, since then. Now it is nearby, in Hinckley's boatyard in Stuart, undergoing some repairs prior to being sold. We drove to have lunch with Eileen and John at one of our favourite restaurants, 'The Sailors' Return' at the 'Sunset Bay Marina' in Stuart. The following day they dropped by to see us at Harbortown, en route for a visit (by car) with family on the west coast of Florida. We hope the boat repairs go smoothly, and that a buyer will soon appear for the lovely 'Somewhere in Time'.
Monday, January 20, 2014
WINTER 2014 WHEN NIAGARA FALLS FREEZES OVER IT'S TIME TO HEAD SOUTH
When the mercury read -20C, and the wind took it down another 10 degrees, we decided it was time for our annual adventure on 'Southern Vectis' to begin. But, just as when we cross over the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas, we had to wait for a weather window. Swirling snow squalls and ice-coated roads don`t make for safe driving. At last, on January 11, we got the green light, and set off on our drive south. A 5 a.m. departure meant that we had skirted the south shore of Lake Erie and passed Cleveland by breakfast time. Our drive south went smoothly, and we needed only one overnight stop in Kentucky. We arrived, tired but happy (it was 25C!) at our hotel beside Fort Pierce Inlet, just two minuted before 9 p.m. and the start of the new T.V. series of `Downton Abbey``. Perfect timing and a perfect start to a new season for the Abbey and us!
Southern Vectis looked a bit green around the gills when we checked her out at Harbortown Marina the next day. Florida has had so much rain recently - 7 inches fell on Thursday alone - that we found two little frogs had taken up residence in one of the outside lockers! Luckily the inside of the boat was clean and dry. So, to work! The anti-fouling paint on the bottom of the boat needed renewing, so we decided to do this ourselves. We kitted ourselves out with the equivalent of `Hazmat`suiting and face masks, and got to work. We were very pleased that a cold front was passing through, and the high temperatures for our work days were around 10C. It was a much larger job than we thought, and we have made a pact with ourselves to get someone else to do it next time!
But it`s not all work. We`ve renewed old friendships on `F` Dock, enjoyed `Happy Hours` at the marina`s Harbor Cove Tiki Bar, and even had time to catch up with Fruji and John - who share grandparenting with our three grandsons - at `Capone`s Hideaway`.
We were lucky to be launched on Friday as the `Travel-Lift` launcher was out of action all week. We were also lucky to get a dock, as Harbortown Marina is full to the overflowing. The reason for this is probably two-fold: the docking rates have been reduced, and also the marina`s renovations of the docks, and all on-shore facilities, such as washrooms, laundry and the Tiki Bar, have now been completed, and the marina is in great shape. We have been good customers of Harbortown for five years, so, happily, a dock materialized for us!
We`ve now spent two nights on board and are beginning to get the boat ship-shape. The first night was cool - the temperature dropped to zero celsius, and there was frost on the docks in the morning. Luckily we have heaters and socks! But each day the sky has been duck egg blue, and the sun warm by midday. It`s beach walking time this afternoon, so must close off now. More anon.
Southern Vectis looked a bit green around the gills when we checked her out at Harbortown Marina the next day. Florida has had so much rain recently - 7 inches fell on Thursday alone - that we found two little frogs had taken up residence in one of the outside lockers! Luckily the inside of the boat was clean and dry. So, to work! The anti-fouling paint on the bottom of the boat needed renewing, so we decided to do this ourselves. We kitted ourselves out with the equivalent of `Hazmat`suiting and face masks, and got to work. We were very pleased that a cold front was passing through, and the high temperatures for our work days were around 10C. It was a much larger job than we thought, and we have made a pact with ourselves to get someone else to do it next time!
But it`s not all work. We`ve renewed old friendships on `F` Dock, enjoyed `Happy Hours` at the marina`s Harbor Cove Tiki Bar, and even had time to catch up with Fruji and John - who share grandparenting with our three grandsons - at `Capone`s Hideaway`.
We were lucky to be launched on Friday as the `Travel-Lift` launcher was out of action all week. We were also lucky to get a dock, as Harbortown Marina is full to the overflowing. The reason for this is probably two-fold: the docking rates have been reduced, and also the marina`s renovations of the docks, and all on-shore facilities, such as washrooms, laundry and the Tiki Bar, have now been completed, and the marina is in great shape. We have been good customers of Harbortown for five years, so, happily, a dock materialized for us!
We`ve now spent two nights on board and are beginning to get the boat ship-shape. The first night was cool - the temperature dropped to zero celsius, and there was frost on the docks in the morning. Luckily we have heaters and socks! But each day the sky has been duck egg blue, and the sun warm by midday. It`s beach walking time this afternoon, so must close off now. More anon.
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