Sunshine and squalls

March 1, 2014
     We spent four wonderfully relaxing days at the Green Turtle Club. We rented a golf cart and drove through the narrow, bumpy lanes into the picturesque 'settlement' of New Plymouth. Lunch was a plate of delicious conch fritters at the 'Wreckers' Tree Cafe. We visited the tiny museum which charts the settlement's history from the 1780's, when those loyal to the British Crown fled the U.S. mainland in the hope that they could continue their gracious lifestyles far from the harassment of those disloyal colonials over the water. All their belongings, including the family silver, and, of course, their slaves, came with them to these beautiful but windswept, sandy shores. Most failed in their initial endeavours, but the hardier ones stuck it out and diversified.  Logging, sponge fishing, sisal and pineapple farming and wrecking all had their day, only to fail in the end. Gun running for the  Confederates in the American Civil War, and booze running during Prohibition gave the islands a temporary boost. Nowadays tourism is the main  industry.

     Back at our dock we met some fellow boaters and got together for drinks and dinners in the Green Turtle Club's cozy bar.  Dave and Judy on their Bristol 31, 'Wren', were on their return journey back to the mainland after lots of adventures in the Abacos and Exuma Islands. Pierre and Francine from Quebec invited us  for drinks aboard their super-luxury 72 foot Marlowe cruiser and joined the gang for dinner.  Each day we wandered the lanes and beaches making the most of each calm and sun-filled day.

    On Sunday 23 February it was time to move on.  We waved a fond farewell to our Green Turtle heaven and set off to get ourselves across 'The Whale', the tricky 'cut' in from the Atlantic Ocean, which can boil up in a rage under certain conditions.  That day looked perfect. The weather forecast was good and there were just a few puffy white clouds sitting on the horizon as we left at midday to get through the shallow White Sound entrance channel.  As we approached the Whale Rock we noticed that the puffy white clouds had suddenly become black clouds and were rapidly moving our way. The seas were quite calm still and so was the wind, but the sky was becoming black. We took in our sails as the rainstorm hit.  Visibility, as we passed the rocky channel, closed in, but there was nothing we could do but carry on, so we did! Thank goodness for Chart Plotters and GPS. As visibility lifted a little we saw a sailboat heading our way, struggling to get its sails down. We each managed a resigned wave as we all had our hands full!

     But all's well that ends well and eventually the dark skies lightened and the shores of Great Guana Cay hove into view. We picked up a mooring ball in the sheltered harbour and spent the next two days enjoying the delights of Guana which, of course, included dallying at Grabber's Bar on Fisher's Bay, and, of course, Nipper's Bar, high above the blue ocean, and home to the 'Barefoot Man' concerts. We'll be returning here for this year's concert with my brother and sister-in-law, so we managed to reserve one of the last slips at the Orchid Bay Marina for our return. Great Guana's anchorages, moorings and slips will be filled to bursting that weekend.

     From Guana we made a short passage towards Treasure Cay.  We anchored for lunch and snorkelling en route and met some more friendly boaters - all Canadians. We tarried longer than we should have at anchor and thunder was growling as we made our way quickly to a dock at Treasure Cay. A bad 'cold front' was forecast and the docks were filling up fast.  We had a day and a half of idyllic weather - time to swim and sunbathe on Treasure Cays miles long white sand beach. Then the cold front arrived with 30 knot winds and two days of heavy, squally rain. Despite this we managed an enjoyable evening out at 'Pizza Night' at the Tipsy Seagull Bar and enjoyed hearing 'Burner's' crooning once again.

     Today the sky is a clear blue once again and we have a busy day ahead of us.  The library is holding  book sale (Ahhh....books - the cruiser's lifeline, especially when your Kindle is out of action, as ours is!) This afternoon our favourite local singer, 'Brown Tip', will be performing at Coco's Beach Bar.  We'll be there!